Where to cut for cvf

Threads about water gun modifications.
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Crashdummy
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Where to cut for cvf

Post by Crashdummy » Mon Oct 31, 2005 12:41 am

As the Title implies, where should I cut to cut out the check valves in my guns. I want to cvf my FF and my CPS 2100. I know you guys are going to say to cut the orange part out for the FF, but all of my FF's internals are orange!

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SSCBen
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Post by SSCBen » Mon Oct 31, 2005 1:14 am

I don't know how many times I must explain this. The check valve configuration follows the exact same pattern for 90% of all water guns. How do you think I can identify what parts are which? The pattern.

The Check valve freezing has an image of the check valve of a Super Soaker CPS 2100. Problem #1 solved.

Take a picture of your Flash Flood's internals and I will draw on the places to cut. Otherwise, simply look at the Max-D 6000 or CPS 2700 pictures and cut in the same spots. It's exactly the same as those two water guns in most water guns.

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Crashdummy
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Post by Crashdummy » Mon Oct 31, 2005 1:36 am

Sorry, I just wanted to make sure. My parents think I am just mindlessly "Hacking" my soakers apart when I mod them and if I were to actually mess one up such as cut in the wrong place, I would probably lose the privelege of being able to buy more soakers. :p

Post 310! Yay, my favorte XP (not including XXPs).

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m15399
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Post by m15399 » Mon Oct 31, 2005 2:39 am

I don't know how all the internals are orange. Hunter's looks exactly like mine. I lost the link to hunter's but here's the link on my site.

Edit: I've always wanted to ask this: How does a check valve work? Is it a one way valve that has a pretty strong spring in it to keep the water back?
Come to think of it, how do one way valves work? :confused:
Last edited by m15399 on Mon Oct 31, 2005 2:46 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Crashdummy
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Post by Crashdummy » Mon Oct 31, 2005 3:50 pm

:) This is how one way valves work. http://entertainment.howstuffworks.com/ ... ster3.html

You see that orange piece of the Flash Flood? My entire gun's internals are made in that color. I guess I will have to cut that orange part in your picture out of my soaker then.

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RacerSoaker445
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Post by RacerSoaker445 » Mon Oct 31, 2005 6:20 pm

The Flash Flood CVF's exactly like a MD 6000 or XP 310. I beleave that the rest of the 2005 line CVF's the same as well.

Let's see what 2005 brings us!
I don't check this forum anymore.

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SSCBen
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Post by SSCBen » Mon Oct 31, 2005 10:02 pm

m15399 wrote:How does a check valve work? Is it a one way valve that has a pretty strong spring in it to keep the water back?
Come to think of it, how do one way valves work? :confused:
What is removed in Check valve freezing is NOT a check valve. It is a pressure-relief valve. You can buy similar valves at some hardware stores and online. The whole name "Check valve freezing" really is incorrect, but it is recognized well and there has been no effort to rename the modification.

Check valves (i.e. true one-way valves) are very easy to understand. A spring usually pushes a slit of rubber against a smaller hole. The pressure and the spring prevent the water from coming through one side, while water can move freely through the other side because the spring will contract in that direction. I have built check valves before with leftovers springs, but they were far from professional quality, so I would suggest buying them at all costs.

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m15399
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Post by m15399 » Mon Oct 31, 2005 11:03 pm

Actually, I was wondering why the two had the same name.

@Crashdummy: Check valves work differently now, because the trigger set-up is completely different.

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Crashdummy
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Post by Crashdummy » Mon Oct 31, 2005 11:17 pm

I know, but that was the basic setup. I Think it is the same for the non air pressure guns too, except that there is a pressure release valve. In theory, you could pump a gun so fast, the pressure release valve can open even though the PC isn't full.

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m15399
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Post by m15399 » Mon Oct 31, 2005 11:31 pm

Not only in theory, I've done that! ;)

But on to the original topic... You should really take a pic, but if you're impatient look at the article I posted again and you should be able to identify the location of the check valve based on my pics.

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Crashdummy
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Post by Crashdummy » Tue Nov 01, 2005 11:54 pm

Hunter gave me a little help on it. He cvf-ed his FF and said to where to cut. I have the section cut out and the gun just needs a little epoxy (I ran out, can you imagine that) and I will test it. The reason it needs the cvf is because it has a water worm mutant's bladder over it's original bladder. That makes the bladder more than twice as thick. After it's internals are reinforced and it's nozzle is nozzle drilled, I will take down some stats.

mr. dude
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Post by mr. dude » Tue Jun 20, 2006 4:29 pm

Sorry for bringing up a dead topic (as always), but I'm helping CVF a friend's FF, and I'm having trouble cutting through the pressure relief valve. There is a screw or spring that doesn't want to be cut. should I get a better saw, or cut somewhere else?

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Silence
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Post by Silence » Tue Jun 20, 2006 5:13 pm

I probably wouldn't know the answer, but I must just point out that a picture might work well. All soakers are different, so this is slightly confusing.

Note that the Flash Flood uses CPS technology, so it's pointless to do a CVF unless you're doing a k-mod/colossus!

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joannaardway
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Post by joannaardway » Tue Jun 20, 2006 6:01 pm

Use a better saw - or possibly cut past the spring somehow.

Are you colossusing it? If not, then don't bother with the CVF.
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mr. dude
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Post by mr. dude » Tue Jun 20, 2006 6:09 pm

it's pointless to do a CVF unless you're doing a k-mod/colossus!
Exactly what I'm doing. I posted this in the "Any flash flood mods out?" thread, but I can't seem to find that. We plan on using the two sizes of LRT that Ben recommended to fix a CPS 2000, which means power similar to that of a CPS 2000. We will colossus that to add even more power. I already ordered the LRT (see my latest thread in the new users forum). To top that off, we will laminate the FF blast.

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