2100 Marks

DX · Post by DX » Sun Aug 15, 2004 6:29 pm

If you've gotten the yellow ridge apart, you should have no problem with the nozzle cap. All of the casing comes apart except for the nozzle area, right?
If that's the case, then just pull the halves of the casing apart, ripping the outer nozzle cap in half. If you do this the halves of the casing will come apart and the inner nozzle won't be damaged. On the MK2, the outer nozzle/nozzle cap/whatever you want to call it is basically an ornament, it is an unecessary part of the gun. Braking it in half will do no harm to the rest of the gun. [MK2 ONLY]

trekkie00 · Post by **trekkie00** » Sun Aug 15, 2004 6:32 pm

Yes. Actually, I was able to get every part of it apart except for the nozzle cap. Are you sure about the inner nozzle? I really don't want to spend another $8 on a water gun.

DX · Post by DX » Sun Aug 15, 2004 6:50 pm

When Nibor and I were trying to mod my MK2 2100, it wouldn't open because of the nozzle. It started to crack and then we just decided to rip the thing apart. It revealed the inner nozzle, not attached to the casing and intact. I don't know why the mk2 was designed like that, it is a pain to mod. Of course if you do mess something up please do not blame me, as my MK2 was successfully opened this way.

DX · Post by DX » Thu Aug 26, 2004 11:59 pm

MK1-This mark has a SMALL SEAM, but it is larger than the mk2. This is the oldest model and the pump cap IS NOT GLUED. The center part of the nozzle is attached to the INTERNALS AND CASING. They are very reliable and powerful, mine got between 14 and 17 shots per tank!

MK2-This is really the one with a SMALL SEAM at the back of the reservoir. It has a GLUED PUMP CAP. The pc is slightly SMALLER than other 2100's. The center part of the nozzle is attached to the INTERNALS. This mark is the HARDEST to mod, but is the MOST powerful.

MK3-The newest model, has LARGE, PRONOUNCED RECTANGULAR RIDGES on the back of the reservoir. The PUMP CAP IS NOT GLUED. The pc is slightly LARGER than the mk1. The center part of the nozzle is attached to the INTERNALS AND CASING. This mark is the EASIEST to mod, but is NOT AS POWERFUL as the mk1 or 2.

MK4?-Nevermind, found out the gun in question was a mark 2.

To easily identify the mark of the 2100 that you are buying in a store:

Twist the pump cap. If it is glued, then the 2100 is MK2. If it moves, then it is not glued and is MK1 or MK3. Then look at the back of the reservoir. If there are ridges, its MK3. If there is a seam, its the hard-to-find and powerful MK1.
Bottom line: If you want the most power and don't mind hacksawing the pump cap, or breaking the outer nozzle, mod a mk2. If you want an easy mod with no complications, but Don't mind less power, mod an mk3. If you are lucky enough to get an mk1, go mod it immediately! Anyway, there is not much difference in power between the 3 marks, so all of them work well for modding.

<EDIT> Found out the gun in question was a mk2, so there remains 3 marks. However Cloud said on iscf that he had a gun that met two criteria. Please post on that.

Timmitop · Post by **Timmitop** » Sun Aug 29, 2004 12:24 am

Oh great, I just found out mt 2100 is a Mk2. Now I really don't want to risk modding it.

P.S. I am kind of a inexperienced user

DX · Post by DX » Sun Aug 29, 2004 5:40 pm

The level of risk of breaking your gun is basically the same for all the marks. A mark 2 can have crazy power; it's just that opening the thing will give you a bad headache. Many first-time-modders are afraid to rip the nozzle area apart and saw the pump cap. So don't be afraid to mod an mk2, just prepare for some hard work. B)

Dark Elite · Post by **Dark Elite** » Tue Sep 07, 2004 9:26 am

Is there any difference in the 'shotgun effect' of the stream of the 2100 between marks? This would mean longer range on some than others, but lower on the pure drenching power.

RacerSoaker445 · Post by **RacerSoaker445** » Tue Sep 07, 2004 1:22 pm

I found out I have a Mark I! w00t.

EDIT: Well, that's what you get when you buy a 2100 from KB Toys for $25.

DX · Post by DX » Tue Sep 07, 2004 7:06 pm

Is there any difference in the 'shotgun effect' of the stream of the 2100 between marks? This would mean longer range on some than others, but lower on the pure drenching power.

I think the shotgun effect is random among guns; Some 2100's have it, some don't. The 2100 doesn't have much "pure drenching power", if you want a real shotgun effect and want to see real 2100 power, go k-mod one.

Dark Elite · Post by **Dark Elite** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 6:18 pm

I meant 'pure drenching power' in comparison to thin 2100 streams and shotgun shots. Perhaps attach a tube to the nozzle to reduce shotgun effect and give longer range?

Spinner · Post by **Spinner** » Thu Apr 07, 2005 3:21 pm

Old topic!

I've just got my CPS 2100s. It seems I have two mk. 3s and two mk. 2s. I've opened one of the mark 3s; I'm just wondering whether to K mod a mk. 2 or a mk. 3. Any recommendations, bearing in mind I haven't actually done a K mod before? Does the range differ greatly between K-modded marks?

Of course, there's still the little question of me getting the 12" balloons... <_<

Dark Elite · Post by **Dark Elite** » Thu Apr 07, 2005 4:40 pm

I would recommend doing a mk3, purely because it's easier to open and therefore less effort wasted if you mess it up.

DX · Post by DX » Mon Apr 11, 2005 2:07 am

The MK3 is definately the better of the 2 marks for modding. Don't even bother with the mk2s. Hours later you'll end up with a headache after finally getting the darn thing open. Anyway the mk3 is very easy to open, easy to mod, and it is very difficult to mess up. You literally have to try to break it. Make sure the seal is very good when you are check valve freezing. A bad seal will cripple the gun and make you take it apart again. Range doesn't vary too much, just a k-mod on the mk3 will yield 50-55ft. A multi-nozzle mod will tag on an additional 5-10ft.

perilous1 · Post by **perilous1** » Mon Apr 11, 2005 2:13 am

Originally posted by Doom@Jul 13 2004, 01:30 PM
My brother got a CPS 2100 today, and right away I noticed the differences. Theres a ton, I probably have forgotton some already. I haven't even opened his 2100 yet so I don't know the internal differences.

My CPS 2100 has a white reservoir cap string, a number on the cap, wide ridges a thin spaces on the cap (if you saw the cap you'd know what I was saying). The cap also is a bit darker. My CPS 2100 also has "ridges" on the back end of the reservoir. The pump cap is not glued on, and the pump stick thing is a bit longer than my brothers. My trigger is a bit darker than his.

His CPS 2100 has a purpleish-blue reservoir string, no number on the cap, thin ridges and wide spaces. His reservoir has a straight line on the back. I'm not sure about his pump cap.

Post as much info, and pics about the different marks of the CPS 2100. I'm going to get some pictures and hopefully make an article documenting this. Anything you post will be appreciated.
[snapback]12505[/snapback]

Super Soaker commonlly make several varients of a gun model.

Hunt_and_Annoy · Post by **Hunt_and_Annoy** » Mon Apr 11, 2005 2:25 am

I have a mk. 3....

[at]perilous-define commonly...I think only like, less than 15 SS have different mk.s and theres over 100 different SS. Correct me if I'm wrong, I think this is right.