2100 Marks

Threads about water gun modifications.
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SSCBen
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Post by SSCBen » Tue Jul 13, 2004 9:30 pm

My brother got a CPS 2100 today, and right away I noticed the differences. Theres a ton, I probably have forgotton some already. I haven't even opened his 2100 yet so I don't know the internal differences.

My CPS 2100 has a white reservoir cap string, a number on the cap, wide ridges a thin spaces on the cap (if you saw the cap you'd know what I was saying). The cap also is a bit darker. My CPS 2100 also has "ridges" on the back end of the reservoir. The pump cap is not glued on, and the pump stick thing is a bit longer than my brothers. My trigger is a bit darker than his.

His CPS 2100 has a purpleish-blue reservoir string, no number on the cap, thin ridges and wide spaces. His reservoir has a straight line on the back. I'm not sure about his pump cap.

Post as much info, and pics about the different marks of the CPS 2100. I'm going to get some pictures and hopefully make an article documenting this. Anything you post will be appreciated.

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NiborDude
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Post by NiborDude » Tue Jul 13, 2004 10:34 pm

Dux and I have identified 3 different types of cps 2100's. We noticed color differences, screw placement, and internal parts. The newest mark of the cps 2100 has a glued pump cap. The oldest one has no ridges on the back of the tank and the sticker is on the right hand side. The oldest moddle is the best to K-mod. It had the biggest power up and largest range gain. I'll get some pics soon.

EDIT: this is old news its not correct
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DX
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Post by DX » Wed Jul 14, 2004 1:02 am

Advice if you want to buy a 2100 for the purpose of k-modification:
Look for the older model, the ones with ridges on the back of the reservoir. All the models have the ridges, but the ones on the older models are very pronounced and larger. This model's pump cap is not glued, so keep that in mind.
You might run into trouble after k-modding a newer 2100 variation. [I had one and it broke down after the k-mod.] There are huge internal differences. When sawing out the check valve, the color of the "stuff that comes out" varies by model.
Also the pc of the older model is slightly larger, while outer section of the nozzle is attached to the internals. The same part of the nozzle of the newer model is attached to the casing.

I'm not sure about his pump cap.


Definately glued. You will have to saw it off in order to mod it.
Nibor and I will get cracking on those 2100 pics soon. B)

EDIT: old news and its not correct.
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King Soaker
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Post by King Soaker » Wed Jul 14, 2004 10:09 pm

Here is a photo showing the 2 most available CPS 2100 models, and the internals of a CPS 2100 on the half shell. You will notice that the upper one has 2 screws at the rear of the butt-stock, and another in the center of the trigger guard, and 2 in the grip. It also has a triangular rear butt-stock while the lower unit has a more rounded one. The top units have a glued pump cap, and are much harder to take apart. The lower one is very easy to break down, and is not glued. It has 3 screws in the grip, and has easier to access screws throughout. This unit is also shown on the very bottom. As Duxburian points out, the more desireable units also have a thick ridge on the back of the water tank making them easy to spot. My tests show the older ones usually shoot a little farther, and have a smoother stream.
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blaze
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Post by blaze » Thu Jul 15, 2004 5:27 pm

My 2100 is the one with the line on the back. Internally, one of the check valves, not the one you cut out during a check valve freeze, is painted black. The color of the reserve was a more orangy red than BlueSmudge's.

Also, I have found different 4100s too. I call the two I have discovered so far the MKAwesome and the MKDifferent. The Awesome has a line down the back of the reserve, while the different has little rectangles. The awesome has a number under the Super Soaker logo. The different does not. The awesome's reserve thing that keeps the cap from coming out is purple, while the different's is orange. And for some reason the different is harder to pump, though the number of pumps is the same. The awesome's trigger valve has never been hard to open, so the weak trigger is no problem. The different's often becomes stubborn and can break easily. There might be more differences, but I haven't spotted them yet.

hooligan
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Post by hooligan » Mon Jul 19, 2004 12:21 pm

I can't tell which one is mine. None of the descriptions match. Mine has 2 screws in the grip, has a simple 2 tone handle, has a dull bluish silver like coat, the pump cap I think is glue and the nozzle also keeps the stuff togehter. I feel so bad hta tI can't mod this gun and my dad always restrains me from buyign water guns cause they are "kiddy" toys. ARgh! :(
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King Soaker
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Post by King Soaker » Tue Jul 20, 2004 3:08 am

If the pump cap is glued, it is much harder to mod. The best way to tell is by looking at the back of the tank. If it has a wide ridge, it's the older, better model. If it simply has a seam, it's a newer one. Since you have only 2 screws in the grip, it is probably the newer one. How old is your dad? Tell him these are not just kiddy toys, but a great hobby.
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trekkie00
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Post by trekkie00 » Sun Aug 01, 2004 12:19 am

Great. It looks like I have one of the "new" 2100s. I was planning on k-modding it, but I have heard stories about them breaking more often. Should I try?
Rereading these forums make me feel old >.<

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DX
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Post by DX » Sun Aug 01, 2004 3:39 pm

Nibor and I determined that the model we thought was old is really the newest.
Therefore reverse everything Ive ever said about 2100 marks. sXPBackfire-esque the old advice, this is the revised system:

MK1-This mark has a SMALL SEAM, but it is larger than the mk2. This is the oldest model and the pump cap IS NOT GLUED. The center part of the nozzle is attached to the INTERNALS AND CASING. They are very reliable and powerful, mine got between 14 and 17 shots per tank!

MK2-This is really the one with a SMALL SEAM at the back of the reservoir. It has a GLUED PUMP CAP. The pc is slightly SMALLER than other 2100's. The center part of the nozzle is attached to the INTERNALS. This mark is the HARDEST to mod, but is the MOST powerful.

MK3-The newest model, has LARGE, PRONOUNCED RECTANGULAR RIDGES on the back of the reservoir. The PUMP CAP IS NOT GLUED. The pc is slightly LARGER than the mk1. The center part of the nozzle is attached to the INTERNALS AND CASING. This mark is the EASIEST to mod, but is NOT AS POWERFUL as the mk1 or 2.


To easily identify the mark of the 2100 that you are buying in a store:

Twist the pump cap. If it is glued, then the 2100 is MK2. If it moves, then it is not glued and is MK1 or MK3. Then look at the back of the reservoir. If there are ridges, its MK3. If there is a seam, its the hard-to-find and powerful MK1.
Bottom line: If you want the most power and don't mind hacksawing the pump cap, or breaking the outer nozzle, mod a mk2. If you want an easy mod with no complications, but Don't mind less power, mod an mk3. If you are lucky enough to get an mk1, go mod it immediately! Anyway, there is not much difference in power between the 3 marks, so all of them work well for modding.
<EDIT>This will be part of my 2100 marks article, so I revised some words.
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trekkie00
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Post by trekkie00 » Sun Aug 01, 2004 8:20 pm

Just out of curiosity, which type do I have?
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trekkie00
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Post by trekkie00 » Sun Aug 01, 2004 8:21 pm

Sorry for the triple post, but I can only upload one file at a time.
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trekkie00
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Post by trekkie00 » Sun Aug 01, 2004 8:22 pm

Final picture.
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RacerSoaker445
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Post by RacerSoaker445 » Sun Aug 01, 2004 8:24 pm

That is the same one I have, a Mark III.
I don't check this forum anymore.

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DX
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Post by DX » Sun Aug 01, 2004 8:26 pm

Not on the revised system. Trekkie has a mark 2. Nibor discovered that the old system was wrong, the marks were in the wrong order.

<EDIT> 300 posts!
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trekkie00
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Post by trekkie00 » Sun Aug 01, 2004 8:29 pm

Do you have any advice for modding it? I have four screws in it that just won't come out!
Rereading these forums make me feel old >.<

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