Very easy WBL

champ021 · Post by **champ021** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 4:06 am

For the douchenator, is it better to use a bicycle tire valve or a car tire valve? Sorry if this sounds like a stupid question, but im new.

NiborDude · Post by **NiborDude** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 4:57 am

Get a schrader valve.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006B ... e&n=228013

Drill a hole and then twist one of these things in. No glue needed if the hole is just slightly smaller than the schrader valve.

joannaardway · Post by **joannaardway** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 12:46 pm

If you can get a threaded schrader valve, all well and good.

If you can't, buy a bike tyre with a Presta valve - these always have threads, but will have to be wound in from the inside. Put the screw ring on the outside - for fairly obvious reasons.

You may need a presta/schrader convertor, depending on whether your pump can work with presta or not.

EDIT: And at anyone who has worries about a constant pressure, use a regulator to bring a higher pressure supply tank down into your chamber.

Silence · Post by **Silence** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 8:48 pm

A bit off topic, but oh well...

joannaardway wrote:EDIT: And at anyone who has worries about a constant, use a regulator to bring a higher pressure supply tank down into your chamber.

Actually, I was considering this at one point. I was thinking about a very large WBL in bulk but not necessarily in barrel size; most of this would be taken up by an additional pressure chamber and a regulator. Naturally, it would use a modified sprinkler valve to help conserve the air. Also, I am debating between several full- or semi-automatic mechanisms...

champ021 · Post by **champ021** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 9:23 pm

Okay, im not dumb or anything, although i do feel like im dumb asking all these questions, but can someone please give me a very, very detailed guide as to how to make this? I have already checked the Douchenator Guide and it was of little help. I need detailed instructions of construction, a full and presice list of materials and sizes, and a detailed drawing of how everything fits into another and how things work. If someone could do this for me it would be greatly appreciated.

Drenchenator · Post by **Drenchenator** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 10:56 pm

Okay, im not dumb or anything, although i do feel like im dumb asking all these questions, but can someone please give me a very, very detailed guide as to how to make this? I have already checked the Douchenator Guide and it was of little help. I need detailed instructions of construction, a full and presice list of materials and sizes, and a detailed drawing of how everything fits into another and how things work. If someone could do this for me it would be greatly appreciated.

No offense, but if you cannot build the Douchenator from a picture of it, then you probably should not build it at all. The in-line design is the most straight-forward design for a pneumatic launcher. The Douchenator is not complicated to build at all, unlike many more complicated designs. In fact, I thought that it was originally designed for ease of construction. The guide on Soaker Media tells you exactly what you need for their version, but seriously, all of the sizes can be changed to fit a "customized" version.

Does the APH (air pressure homemade) guide go into enough detail for you to build that? I can try to make size diagrams like the ones in that article if you need them.

champ021 · Post by **champ021** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 1:41 am

Please send detailed diagrams. How much should the douchenator cost to build?

Drenchenator · Post by **Drenchenator** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 1:57 am

Judging by what parts are used, a basic Douchenator should cost about 30 USD, maybe more depending on what you need to by on top of the basic parts (like a bike or tire pump). The price is fairly low because it does not use any "real" check valves (which would raise the price slightly).

As for the diagrams, I can make them but it would probably take a day or two, so please be patient. I will try to make them as descriptive as possible. Until then, you should probably view the diagram in the first post, it should help.

DX · Post by DX » Thu Jul 13, 2006 2:11 am

One could use a check valve if they wanted. However, if the schrader valve is screwed in until you really can't physically get it in further, there are no air leaks. If you can see any threads, the valve is still not far in enough.

Ease of construction was one of the original goals, but by far not the most important.

I would make a more detailed diagram, except that my 8-4 [7-5] job takes a lot out of me.

NiborDude · Post by **NiborDude** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 5:07 am

Well, technically, isn't the Schrader valve a check valve? Pressure is applied from one side and when enough is produced, whatever substance that is making the pressure goes through it.

joannaardway · Post by **joannaardway** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 7:54 am

Bike valves are reversible check valves - you can "bleed" them if needs be.

@ silentguy: I would suggest use of either a "PCg type piston" - (just air on both sides)

Or an air fuse - which automatically shuts off the air if it exceeds a certain level, (i.e. in case of hose rupture - or the projectile leaving the muzzle) instead of a modified soleniod.

I proposed that for Cerberus originally, but I've replaced the concept with the PCg piston concept. How exactly do you plan to modify the soleniod?

I would say that the problem here is that having a pneumatic modification will mean that the system cannot retain air as you propose.

insanitys_engineer · Post by **insanitys_engineer** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 10:58 am

http://www.tikproducts.co.uk/index.asp? ... ductid=143

This is what I am going to use to improve my current launcher. Adding this and a pressure gauge will be a distinct advanatge aswell. I realise it may take a little while longer to charge than by hand, but the autonomy should be an advantage.
Currently I have a 2 litre bottle as the inline reservoir, and a second under the barrel.

joannaardway · Post by **joannaardway** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 11:14 am

Most cordless/12V compressors aren't worth their weight in peanuts.

They're mostly for the person who's so lazy that they won't use a bike pump and hasn't got room for a decent compressor.

champ021 · Post by **champ021** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 3:57 pm

Oh my god. I went to RONA to try and get the parts for the douchenator and the only parts i could find for it were... Reducers, End-cap, and cement. God,... why dont they stock parts properly. im gunna go back on the weekend with my father and try again. And are you sure you use a metal ball valve for this?...cuz i went on RONA's website ad it said that the size i would need is like....$56.00! is that right? I dont want this project to cost me tons of money.

Drenchenator · Post by **Drenchenator** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 5:02 pm

Oh my god. I went to RONA to try and get the parts for the douchenator and the only parts i could find for it were... Reducers, End-cap, and cement. God,... why don't they stock parts properly. im gunna go back on the weekend with my father and try again.

Could you find the 3" pipe? As I have said before, don't get stressed out over what size reducers to get and such because they can be changed based on what is available to you. If worst comes to worst, you can order some of the parts off of McMaster-Carr, they seem to have close to any plumbing part.

And are you sure you use a metal ball valve for this?...cuz i went on RONA's website ad it said that the size i would need is like....$56.00! is that right? I don't want this project to cost me tons of money.

You don't actually need a metal ball valve, a regular PVC one will do fine and be much cheaper (I am not going to get into the metal versus plastic ball valve debate, it is quite stupid). McMaster-Carr has 1 1/4" brass ball valves (part 47865K26) for 22.86 USD, while PVC ball valve of the same size and type (part 4876K14 ) is only 10.12 USD. The size ball valve that they recommend is actually very large, which is good and bad. Ball valves open incredibly slowly (for a valve), which seriously degrades performance. But it allows more flow, which aids performance and is good. However, larger valves are bad because they can cost a fortune.

If you still want to lower the price and still use a metal ball valve, try using a 1" or 3/4" ball valve. You would have to change the reducer sizes, but it would significantly lower the cost.

And please try to make your posts readable. Your previous posts seemed fine, but this one was a mess.

Super Soaker Central

Very easy WBL

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