You could keep a valve stem remover with you give it a twist or 2 pressure comes out. The cost for a schrader valve and stem remover is much less at about 2.50 to 5.00, less threads, much less bulk, and less opportunity to break. Also if there was a WBL included there would be no problem relieving pressure
also have you heard the difference between the 2 the previous is much louder in DB than a schrader
Supercannon II mk. 2
- adronl
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Re: Supercannon II mk. 2
Last edited by adronl on Mon Jun 29, 2009 12:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
- SSCBen
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Re: Supercannon II mk. 2
Air quick-connects and a small check valve are much more expensive than a schrader valve, but I find them to be much more useful primarily because I can keep them attached to an air compressor. A complete assembly with a dump valve and soon pop-safety valve I find to be useful too. Regardless, I can easily find schraders in 1/4" NPT and swap out the quick-connect and check valve for one if desired.
Buna-N rubber is fine with petroleum based lubricants according to every chemical compatibility chart I've seen. Here's one chart that gives the combination of Buna-N rubber and petroleum jelly an "A", the best rating on the chart. If your piston cups are degrading I'd imagine it's due to something else.
I'd be interested in the piston photos as I haven't taken a look at my own since construction 3 years ago.
Buna-N rubber is fine with petroleum based lubricants according to every chemical compatibility chart I've seen. Here's one chart that gives the combination of Buna-N rubber and petroleum jelly an "A", the best rating on the chart. If your piston cups are degrading I'd imagine it's due to something else.
I'd be interested in the piston photos as I haven't taken a look at my own since construction 3 years ago.
Last edited by SSCBen on Mon Jun 29, 2009 12:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- adronl
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Re: Supercannon II mk. 2
I have had problems with the pistons when using couplers the most I have rebuilt the 3" three times and the 6" twice it kinda sucks! I am beginning to think that it may have something to do with using couplers on top of the obvious piston reinforcement. The 2" piston gun has been fired quite a bit and keeps on going due to its smaller size making it a bit more durable but it does not have a coupler it leaks a bit but not much and I have been firing at 110 psi lately the water screams out of that little gun. The piston it just slamming to the top
Oh yeah your contest I gotta buy a gun to do a review right no homemades
Oh yeah your contest I gotta buy a gun to do a review right no homemades
- Silence
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Re: Supercannon II mk. 2
I agree with Ben, pictures of the ruined pistons could be helpful.
Sadly, unless I'm mistaken, the review contest you speak of ended over a year ago. We're still happy to take submissions, though.
Sadly, unless I'm mistaken, the review contest you speak of ended over a year ago. We're still happy to take submissions, though.
- adronl
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Re: Supercannon II mk. 2
Lol figured It was talking about a new CPS design that was pre-charged had me interested I coulda sworn it was this July oh well lol
Last edited by adronl on Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- adronl
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- Joined: Thu May 07, 2009 1:28 am
Re: Supercannon II mk. 2
Oh yeah I meant to mention that there is a connector that locks onto a schrader valve so you can be directly connected to an air compressor or an air storage tank.
Also I would say that the bushing is ok if you want to use a reducing coupling to get a better flow try a 4" to 3" bushing and then the 3' to 1 1/2 reducing coupling or what ever size you want your ball valve to be. Repeated use with your piston cup slamming directly into the reducing coupling rounds the front of the top piston and seems to make the seal worse and worse.
P.S. you can merge these I just wanted Ben to noticed I added info
Also I would say that the bushing is ok if you want to use a reducing coupling to get a better flow try a 4" to 3" bushing and then the 3' to 1 1/2 reducing coupling or what ever size you want your ball valve to be. Repeated use with your piston cup slamming directly into the reducing coupling rounds the front of the top piston and seems to make the seal worse and worse.
P.S. you can merge these I just wanted Ben to noticed I added info