The future is close

SSCBen · Post by **SSCBen** » Fri Jan 30, 2004 9:53 pm

Well, the homemade should be done sometime this weekend... I can't wait.
I'm not sure when I'm going to go to Home Depot tommorow, but I do know I'll finish the homemade this weekend most likely. The power should be off the scale... the chamber is twice as thick as a normal one... pumping should be ok, I'm used to hard pumping.
Can't wait, it'll be more powerful than a CPS 2000, and made of stronger materials.
Can't wait...
(going to piss himself)

superstormer · Post by **superstormer** » Sat Jan 31, 2004 2:47 pm

I thought you said you would make it in a few months. How much will it cost.

SSCBen · Post by **SSCBen** » Sat Jan 31, 2004 2:54 pm

This is no lie:
Less than $50.

Neuro · Post by **Neuro** » Mon Feb 02, 2004 10:10 pm

but the question is, will the average US citizen be able to understand it about as much as the tax code? or is it simpler?

SSCBen · Post by **SSCBen** » Tue Feb 03, 2004 1:56 am

The homemade is pretty simple, I just finished perfecting the design of the trigger valve, and it should work great.
Since it was my first expierience with PVC, I don't think that it's too complex. The hardest parts will be the pump and the trigger systems, but require stuff to work with metal, and they both need near perfect in the center drilling in an endcap.
I was surprised at how well my trigger system works now, and with those changes I'm planning, it should work *perfectly*, at least better. Right now it leaks a bit out of the back of the valve(needs an o ring or 2 to fit the space), it needs some greasing, and the valve doesn't work well unless the rod is centered(I've got the fix designed).
Btw, the gun is going to be around 2 feet 9 inches long, a bit shorter than everyone's favorite: the CPS 2000. Most of the space is going to be the PC, I tried to make it as short as possible without making it bad.

SSCBen · Post by **SSCBen** » Fri Feb 06, 2004 8:55 pm

Well, I'm not sure when I'll get this thing done, but I do know it will be done soon. I made a list of the 4 different items I need to finish it, and because I only need 4 more items I'm going to use the leftover parts and 2 check valves I'm going to buy to make an air rifle just for fun.
Btw, I will not make instructions on how to make this thing for a few months, and I also will not post pictures that may or may not possibly show how it is made. I worked a long time on it, and I guess it's ok to monopolize a while on it's design.

Spinner · Post by **Spinner** » Thu Feb 12, 2004 11:34 pm

Understood. But maybe you could post some stats, text information about it, etc?

SSCBen · Post by **SSCBen** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 3:16 pm

Sure. Most of this stuff was stuff I had written up already about it.

A semi old pic, since then, I've worked on the PC a bit more and I cut the pump shorter.

The gun uses a different kind of CPS technology, it's not like normal cylindrical, I designed it myself, so if the patent lawyers think it's different enough, I could actually patent it myself. You see how there are two things going into the PC? There is only tubing(well, and tubing clamps) connecting that. I'm not sure what to call this kind of CPS, if anyone thinks of anything cool, post it here.

The water resiviour is going to be a backpack, I've made several in the past. I just am going to need to buy a cheap frame backpack to support the weight of the water better. That means 6+ galloons of water, and carrying it would be easier and feel lighter than if it was in a regular backpack.

The nozzles are my most creative thing yet. I've got screw on endcaps to use as the nozzle. So basically, infinite nozzle settings, the only downside is that I'd have to carry around a lot of endcaps, not that it will be a problem with the backpack!

I'm planning on adding not only a strap(and a good one), but since I expect it to have kick that is more than that of something like my 27000, I'm also adding a buttstock. I think I may either extend the backside of the backend of the gun, or just wrap and attach a towel to the backside and use the flat part as the buttstock. Maybe I'll add a small piece of PVC to use as a scope type thing, I've never thought they have much use due to the short range of the gun.

While I expect this gun to have extreme range, I do not know what it will be. I do expect over 55 feet, which is pretty good, but I'd be really really happy if I got someting like 70 feet. I designed it so that if I wanted to, I could rifle it, so maybe 70 feet isn't too far off. I reexplained rifling to my dad, and what he told me explains a lot. He thinks that rifling does not actually work to make the water spin, instead it increases the pressure of the water coming out of the nozzle by being an obstruction, sorta like the mesh filters. I've been reading stuff in some school science books, as well as on the internet, and I think that may be true due to Bernoulli's Principle, but I may have read it wrong. Who knows, but ever since I started reading more of this stuff, I've been thinking about making a few changes inside of the gun to reduce turbulance, but I don't think it can be done with my current design.

If you have any other questions, ask them here, I think I covered most everything.

SSCBen · Post by **SSCBen** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 11:59 pm

Ok, here's a double post for your viewing pleasure!

I've almost finished the trigger valve except for the lubrication of it because it's kinda slow. It should hold a lot of pressure, be much easier to use than ball valves and much cheaper than solenoids. I designed it so that it will have a normal trigger like operation, I would hate having a trigger that I have to turn.

Neuro · Post by **Neuro** » Sun Feb 15, 2004 2:36 pm

interesting. keep in mind hasbro promises "real" rifling (a "spinning" stream) with the super soaker helix.

pilchard · Post by **pilchard** » Wed Feb 18, 2004 2:07 pm

id like to see a diagram of the valve when you are done, if you may. on my XP homemade I just used a brass ball valve. easy and cheap, yet not fun to pull, and you can only get one shot before the gun loses pressure.also, an idea for the nozzle, I had done the same end cap screwon's as you did, but I also got a random 1000's nozzle which belonged to a broken 1000, and screwed it in. The mesh and grates on the inside of the nozzle I think help the stream stay together. another thing, I think you should try a long skinny barrel, see if a long barrel will help coherency. coolness

SSCBen · Post by **SSCBen** » Wed Feb 18, 2004 8:09 pm

I'll talk to you on AIM. I want it to be a secret for a few months. I have a few pictures taken, and I'll make a small secret article about how the valve works. It really is nice, it just needs some lubeing, a trigger and a few rubber bands to keep it closed and it will work great.

My dad said that you can buy a thing to repair something that comes with a small patch of fine mesh. I was planning on expirimenting with nozzles quite a bit, and that, along with rifling and a few other ideas were on my mind. I've got a ton of ideas.

Neuro · Post by **Neuro** » Wed Feb 18, 2004 11:50 pm

I doubt they'd have the right size, but spudtech (or some other spudgun store) sells prerifled pvc.

SSCBen · Post by **SSCBen** » Thu Feb 19, 2004 10:56 am

That rifled PVC is for shotting spuds, it's like 3" PVC. That's also not the kind of rifling needed, rifling slots/bored/whatever they're called will not work very well with soakers, a solid object would work better, it's what Codemaster used.

In other news... I finished collosusing it with the big stuff. The bike tube is harder, it moves around when you try to put more over it, I'm going to use duct tape to make it stay in the same spot.

SSCBen · Post by **SSCBen** » Fri Feb 20, 2004 12:24 am

I am nearly finished with a PowerPak like homemade made from leftover CPS tubing and other stuff. I think I may finish it before I finish Threshold. Both are going to be excellent homemades, SSC is going to be home of the homemade!