Super Soaker Central

So my CPS 1200 suffered a stuck trigger earlier today. Opening the gun up, pressure and water vented when the PC began to lose its seal to the rest of the internals, at which point I could pull the trigger again.

What I don't know is the cause of the stuck trigger, and therefore how to stop it happening again. I wasn't really able to check for any alignment problems, since in the CPS 1200 some parts are fixed to the screws side (so they all started moving when I lifted it off.)

I got this once on a 10k and it happens quite often with the 4100. It stopped happening on the 4100 once I swapped triggers (all of which are repaired solutions that I'm using), and the 10k never had an issue after. (I may have removed some balloons from it.)

I've considered improvising some kind of emergency pressure relief method, such as tying some string to the pull valve directly and having it stick out somewhere. Such is needed for so many CPS's, it seems.

Never had a stuck trigger on my 12k's, even though the trigger's pulling range is shorter than the 10k and the PC's run at higher pressures with more balloons. However, one my 12k's had a broken pull valve; the internal spring wore out (I got it from a friend who didn't take care of his blasters) so I rubber banded it, did a K-mod, and now it's pretty much my favorite blaster.

I can only think of the problem of rost and lack of lubrication fluid. Just recently I had a CPS 3000 where the pull valve was stuck sometimes. The only thing I did was to open the pressure chamber where the valve is, clean all internals and put silicon oil to the pieces. Then I moved the valve back and forward some 100 times(haha, not really that much). Then I put all together, put some silicon oil into the reservoir, fired this water 3 times through the gun's internals and that's it, valve works like NEW.

This ALWAYS helps, but may the main problem is caused by a rosted spring inside. Replace the spring or "over-expand" it if it is too weak.

Try this, it may help Good luck

I thought a dud spring would stop the valve closing, not stop it opening ???

Hm, may you missunderstand something here:
I am talking about the CPS pull valve.

Inside the two white halfs is the seal-slice, which closed and opens the water flow. This slice is pressed at the opposite half by a big spring and this way the waterflow is stopped.

If you just "overexpand" this spring, you get more tension/stress on the seal slice, which means that the pull valve is closing harder, with more power and therefore safer.

Together with silicon oil and some cleaning actions the thing is over and the valve works again

Hope you understand what I mean^^

He is having trouble opening the valve, not closing it. I think it might just be that you have too much pressure. Try removing some balloons.

I'll be surprised if there are any balloons, to my knowledge the blaster isn't K-modded. I guess I could open up the PC case and check.

haha, ok now I understand

Then you have to do the things I posted prior but you can try to reduce the lengh of the spring by cutting off a little. Also rost and other dirty things may be on the small stab, where the seal slice is mounted, making the trigger-valve difficult to open and close.

I NEVER had problems JUST with the opening of the valve. In case I had problems, I had problems with closing or with closing AND opening.

Only thing I can think of is dirt and rust on the specific stab and too much pressure.

Stucked closed valves can always be opened with enough force, unless the connection with the pin and seal somehow breaks and leaves the seal by itself to plug up the valve. If the trigger is constantly getting stuck, the PRV may be getting stiff, or the trigger may need to somehow be re-adjusted to pull back further.

If you can't find anything else that works you can always cut a hole in the plastic on one side of the firing pin. That way if it gets stuck you just press the pin forward and it stops firing. I did that with my 2100 and it works.