Flash Flood (and general Max-D trigger) repairing
Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 7:48 pm
Terms:
FF: Short for Flash Flood (well duh)
Max-D trigger: Reference to triggers first used on the Max-D line. These triggers make a clicking noise, are often stiff, and the click must go for the valve to open. When pulling such triggers, a system of random stuff inside snaps open a ball valve. This system allows for trigger-like feel and speed, but the ball valve allows more direct flow than the older valves do.
Starting up:
Due to numerous problems with the FF that so many people have had, are having, and will have, I thought it'd be a good idea to create a sticky thread/Arcticle on it. This stuff is actually pretty relevant with other guns that use Max-D triggers, there's just the usual random design variations, that make the problem vary from gun to gun. Most of the other guns' triggers aren't that weak either. (at least from what I've tried)
Opening:
To open up the FF, get all the screws. Beware of the ones under the Flood trigger. Afterwards, get the nozzle caps. Try to get the screwdriver in, as those caps are composed of 2 pieces. (one outside and one in) Those two pieces are secured by 2 screws. You may be able to pry out the small nozzle's cap, but you'll need to unscrew apart the large nozzle's cap. After that, it's the pump cap. My prefered method of getting through this is using a flathead screwdriver and a hammer. Use these to create a seam that passes through the cap vertically, so that one part of the cap is on one side of the gun and the other part on the other side.
Potential problems and repairs:
Now, the repair. In most cases, the spring(s) is/are the defective part of the trigger(s). If the spring is broken, it must be removed and replaced with something. Find a good rubber band or set of rubber bands, or an extension spring if you can find one. (springs are better but harder to find) One person used rubber bands for braces from an orthodon'tist. Study the Max-D trigger well, play around, and see how it works.
In some situations and guns, a different piece could be causing the problem. (as it was in the case of my friend's Max-D Secret Strike) If that's the case, reinforce and glue it up.
For me, my main trigger's spring broke up while the Flood trigger's spring weakened and often would lock up and not pull. I reversed the spring on this one and that fixed most of it, while adding rubber bands actually did not help. (nor did replacing the spring with rubber bands only) Even though it fixed most of the problem, whoever is using it still needs to pull the trigger fast, otherwise it'll lock up.
A lockup will occur anytime the elastic part (rubber band or spring) is too weak, mispositioned slightly, and/or isn't contracting fast enough. Lockups can sometimes be prevented if the trigger is pulled directly and fast enough. (for the flood trigger, I had to put my hand on where the connection to the Max-D system was and pull fast to prevent a lock-up) However, avoid pulling any potentially problematic trigger too slowly.
Here are some Flash Flood internal pics. Looking through other threads will often be helpful too.
http://www.isoaker.com/Armoury/Tech/int ... flood.html
3/21/10 important update: This applies to ALL ball valves; water warriors, Max-D, whatever. When all spring replacements and attempts fail, one crucial solution I overlooked was lubrication. Lubrication of the valve fixed two of my water guns already and I'll be sure to try it in the future. My Flash Flood which has been sitting around waiting for a repair for years has a perfectly working riot blast now, despite the fact that the spring is very worn out and old. Unfortunately, this won't fix your broken springs, but for springs that seem to have worn out, lubrication can help a ton, stopping the notorious stuck valve that does not always close when the trigger is released.
What lubricants should you use? The one you select obviously must be safe with plastic but it's not a bad idea to check that it's also safe for rubber. (since you may use it for pumps as well) I recently picked up two types of silicone lubricants: a heavy duty silicone spray and a non-toxic silicone grease. The spray comes with a well needed straw for those hard to reach areas, but the grease is perfect for pumps and Flash Flood riot blast valves. You will have to disassemble the Max-D mech to fully lubricate the valve; rub some grease on the exposed part of the valve when closed, then roll the valve around to spread it. Don't worry that the valve only turns halfway; it will spread if you roll it back and forth enough and apply more when needed. The grease should also work on homemade valves. (though previously an older silicone spray I tried slowed down one of my PVC valves; beware of the stuff you pick and ask people at the hardware store for help) I would highly recommend silicone grease as an alternative to vaseline since it creates a good protective film that does not get sticky or annoying. Silicone grease is also applied by hand.
Update 6/19/10: Well, my second Flash Flood's riot blast valve has had the same problem too. Silicone grease did not help the valve move faster this time, so I went ahead and tried the spray. It worked very well so you'll have to choose which lubricant to use for each situation.
FF: Short for Flash Flood (well duh)
Max-D trigger: Reference to triggers first used on the Max-D line. These triggers make a clicking noise, are often stiff, and the click must go for the valve to open. When pulling such triggers, a system of random stuff inside snaps open a ball valve. This system allows for trigger-like feel and speed, but the ball valve allows more direct flow than the older valves do.
Starting up:
Due to numerous problems with the FF that so many people have had, are having, and will have, I thought it'd be a good idea to create a sticky thread/Arcticle on it. This stuff is actually pretty relevant with other guns that use Max-D triggers, there's just the usual random design variations, that make the problem vary from gun to gun. Most of the other guns' triggers aren't that weak either. (at least from what I've tried)
Opening:
To open up the FF, get all the screws. Beware of the ones under the Flood trigger. Afterwards, get the nozzle caps. Try to get the screwdriver in, as those caps are composed of 2 pieces. (one outside and one in) Those two pieces are secured by 2 screws. You may be able to pry out the small nozzle's cap, but you'll need to unscrew apart the large nozzle's cap. After that, it's the pump cap. My prefered method of getting through this is using a flathead screwdriver and a hammer. Use these to create a seam that passes through the cap vertically, so that one part of the cap is on one side of the gun and the other part on the other side.
Potential problems and repairs:
Now, the repair. In most cases, the spring(s) is/are the defective part of the trigger(s). If the spring is broken, it must be removed and replaced with something. Find a good rubber band or set of rubber bands, or an extension spring if you can find one. (springs are better but harder to find) One person used rubber bands for braces from an orthodon'tist. Study the Max-D trigger well, play around, and see how it works.
In some situations and guns, a different piece could be causing the problem. (as it was in the case of my friend's Max-D Secret Strike) If that's the case, reinforce and glue it up.
For me, my main trigger's spring broke up while the Flood trigger's spring weakened and often would lock up and not pull. I reversed the spring on this one and that fixed most of it, while adding rubber bands actually did not help. (nor did replacing the spring with rubber bands only) Even though it fixed most of the problem, whoever is using it still needs to pull the trigger fast, otherwise it'll lock up.
A lockup will occur anytime the elastic part (rubber band or spring) is too weak, mispositioned slightly, and/or isn't contracting fast enough. Lockups can sometimes be prevented if the trigger is pulled directly and fast enough. (for the flood trigger, I had to put my hand on where the connection to the Max-D system was and pull fast to prevent a lock-up) However, avoid pulling any potentially problematic trigger too slowly.
Here are some Flash Flood internal pics. Looking through other threads will often be helpful too.
http://www.isoaker.com/Armoury/Tech/int ... flood.html
3/21/10 important update: This applies to ALL ball valves; water warriors, Max-D, whatever. When all spring replacements and attempts fail, one crucial solution I overlooked was lubrication. Lubrication of the valve fixed two of my water guns already and I'll be sure to try it in the future. My Flash Flood which has been sitting around waiting for a repair for years has a perfectly working riot blast now, despite the fact that the spring is very worn out and old. Unfortunately, this won't fix your broken springs, but for springs that seem to have worn out, lubrication can help a ton, stopping the notorious stuck valve that does not always close when the trigger is released.
What lubricants should you use? The one you select obviously must be safe with plastic but it's not a bad idea to check that it's also safe for rubber. (since you may use it for pumps as well) I recently picked up two types of silicone lubricants: a heavy duty silicone spray and a non-toxic silicone grease. The spray comes with a well needed straw for those hard to reach areas, but the grease is perfect for pumps and Flash Flood riot blast valves. You will have to disassemble the Max-D mech to fully lubricate the valve; rub some grease on the exposed part of the valve when closed, then roll the valve around to spread it. Don't worry that the valve only turns halfway; it will spread if you roll it back and forth enough and apply more when needed. The grease should also work on homemade valves. (though previously an older silicone spray I tried slowed down one of my PVC valves; beware of the stuff you pick and ask people at the hardware store for help) I would highly recommend silicone grease as an alternative to vaseline since it creates a good protective film that does not get sticky or annoying. Silicone grease is also applied by hand.
Update 6/19/10: Well, my second Flash Flood's riot blast valve has had the same problem too. Silicone grease did not help the valve move faster this time, so I went ahead and tried the spray. It worked very well so you'll have to choose which lubricant to use for each situation.