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Old 04-19-2004, 03:32 PM   #1
Xray
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For bottle-rockets, me (and many other people) use PL Premium. It is a great adhesive for just about anything. Its stronger than superglue (for sure) , just dries slowly. You can cut a 2L pop-bottle in half , and glue it back together with this stuff, and it will hold 150 PSI+ easily. The non-glued part will fail before it does.

I have it in a cocking-tube here, I Don't know if you can get it in any other form, but its great stuff. Easy to find also...

Good thing is... it doesn't have any harmful odours, and although it tells you to use gloves you Don't really need them, just wash well (or Don't get it on you) afterwards.

Sticks to almost ANYTHING and does not shrink... just make SURE it doesn't dry touching anything important. I once had a ~1 cm area dry between a bottle and a place-mat, I had to cut the placemat away... couldnt get it off.

So stop using epoxy and get some of this stuff :P PVC Weld is still better if you working with just PVC, but that makes it quite limited.

I hope someone trys this stuff

-blake
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Old 04-19-2004, 05:06 PM   #2
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Sounds good, how much does it cost?
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Old 04-19-2004, 08:49 PM   #3
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I got this stuff that I used to mod my big trouble. Duco cement. A little better than super glue. Does a basic dry in less than 10 min. And after a day its like plastic..if you use enough.
It can be cheap too. I forget how much, the bottle lasts forever.
"most popular houshold glue"<quote from tube.
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Old 04-20-2004, 10:04 AM   #4
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I have this stuff called zap-a-gap that I use for my RC cars. it bonds everything, even metal!

Also, I have been fixing the seal in my Trgger Valve with this stuff called form-a-seal (I think), it works REALLY well.

Hey, that's funny., do I sound like a commercial?
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Old 04-20-2004, 12:00 PM   #5
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PL Premium is the only name I have found it under... its not very expensive, buy one tube and it'll never run out.

The tube im using is 3 YEARS OVER the expire date, and its stronger than ever!

I don't know how yours dries in 15 minutes, my bottle says you can re-position the glue for up to 1 hour, and by then its still quite soft. If you apply it in any thickness it can take days to dry, thats the only setback.

PS: It warns about the bonding strength, it says "Warning: Once set this adhesive is almost impossible to remove." So gotta be careful... Just this morning I noticed it EVEN BONDS TO TEFLON (which has got to be one of the best non-stick surfaces)

RacerSoaker445: What RC cars do you have? I have an RC10T3 aswell as an HPI Micro RS4 and an Xray M18. I run XrayRC.com, and I THINK I put some pics of my own car on there...
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Old 04-20-2004, 01:50 PM   #6
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[at]Xray:
I own an stock RC10T4 and a hopped-up Traxxas Rustler. I run my cars at the local track (RC excitment) once in a while.
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Old 04-20-2004, 05:57 PM   #7
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hmmm, sounds off topic
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Old 04-20-2004, 10:26 PM   #8
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its off topic, but how else was I suposed to find out? go make a specific thread "ATTN: RacerSoaker445! " in 'off topic'? it would seem a little odd just to find out a simple question...

my 0.2 C


Also, I think making a post saying "hmmm, sounds off topic" is more off topic than our RC car question

Anyway, im going to have some pics of my super soaker up soon, its got a heck of a lot of PL Premium used on it... so you can see what it looks like. Just think of liquid plastic, thats basically what it is...


-blake
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Old 04-21-2004, 10:22 AM   #9
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I'll also take some pics of mine...

oh look.. there's the camrea...

EDIT: here we go...

RC car pic:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Mvc_901s.jpg (48.7 KB, 112 views)
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Old 04-21-2004, 01:15 PM   #10
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sorry for the double post, here's a Soaker pic:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Mvc_906s.jpg (45.7 KB, 53 views)
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Old 06-25-2004, 03:30 AM   #11
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can you buy that glue on the net?

EDIT: also I would like to know whether PL premium or PL concrete is the best for SS work
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Old 06-25-2004, 10:45 AM   #12
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Wow that sounds intersting...the kind of epoxy I am using right now is really weak. I think if I got a better type, I could freeze my soaker's check valves better.


Note: Teh problem I run into when I freeze my check valve, is that my epoxy is too runny. It runs along the spiral grooves in the screw I used to block the opening. It then dries inside the pladtic tubing and blocks everything oof (plus it's not air tight) any suggestions?
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Old 06-25-2004, 01:52 PM   #13
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Shop around and get plumbers epoxy. Its almost as strong, and comes in a stick. Plus its like puddy, so it doesn't run, and you work it with your fingers. Probably stronger than what you got.
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Old 06-25-2004, 02:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by BlueSmudge@Jun 25 2004, 12:52 PM
Shop around and get plumbers epoxy. Its almost as strong, and comes in a stick. Plus its like puddy, so it doesn't run, and you work it with your fingers. Probably stronger than what you got.
Thanks! I'll try that.
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Old 06-25-2004, 02:34 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by wetmonkey442@Jun 25 2004, 06:45 AM
Wow that sounds intersting...the kind of epoxy I am using right now is really weak. I think if I got a better type, I could freeze my soaker's check valves better.


Note: Teh problem I run into when I freeze my check valve, is that my epoxy is too runny. It runs along the spiral grooves in the screw I used to block the opening. It then dries inside the pladtic tubing and blocks everything oof (plus it's not air tight) any suggestions?
Man the screw you used must have been much too small. When I did a Freeze, I used a screw that was big enough that it created threads in the plastic (as Doom noted in the article), so adding Plastic Welder (the best glue to use for soakers in my opinion, 1000 PSI stronger than the strongest epoxy I could find in my hardware store, Plastic Welder holds 3500 PSI) only made sure that leaks didn't come out of the screw threads. But the screw was very tightly in the valve. I cut the valve then took it with me to the store, so I could get a screw slightly bigger than the hole that was big enough to create threads in the plastic.
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