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Old 09-13-2006, 10:14 PM   #31
DX
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The issue had nothing to do with piping. Copper pipe is outrageously expensive and PVC is dirt cheap. No one's contesting that. The prices were for ball valves.
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Old 09-14-2006, 05:02 AM   #32
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I can get a metal 1/2" Check valve for £4 at my local DIY

A 1/2" PVC one is about £13 from a major internet site promoting cheap prices.

Metal pipe is however more expensive than PVC to my knowledge, but it does the job 10 times better.
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Old 09-14-2006, 06:02 PM   #33
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4 GBP=~10$ CAD- Wow, were they spring loaded, or gravity? Because that is damn cheap.
Where would one look when going to purchase a check valve in a home depot? Is it plumbing, and if so, where in the plumbing section (I will probably get more money on Friday, and get my things on Saturday or Sunday)
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Old 09-14-2006, 06:10 PM   #34
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At the local Lowes, all the valves are in the plumbing/PVC aisles. You should be able to find them easily, but ask somebody if you're not sure.

If the metal valves are so cheap, then you should definitely get them. Oh, and if you use my suggestion, then have them slant up instead of down like I said--it would probably be a lot better. Good luck!
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Old 09-14-2006, 07:08 PM   #35
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I dont have a Lowes anywhere near me, as I live in Canada. I only live near Rona and Home Depots.
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Old 09-14-2006, 07:21 PM   #36
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Any hardware store should sell ball valves. In fact, there's a local one near me called Home Hardware, which trumps Lowes and Home Depot in size selection. Their prices are also sweet, 1/2" metal valves for $3-5 each. The 1" metal valves are only $10-12, with the 2" being $20. [Compare Sears' $26 for a 1 1/4"!]

If you can't find any, ask, but with caution. Many employees have no clue what they've got in various sections. I'm used to the phrase, "such a part surely couldn't exist" and "no one makes a gap that big" [when asking for a 3"-3/4" reducer, I later found 4 of them].
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Old 09-14-2006, 08:19 PM   #37
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Home Hardware has ball valves?!?
I havent seen any there, but that's alot closer than Home Depot, and supposedly cheaper, so I will probably go there for the ball valves.
Here are some pics of the LRT, my "end of the PC (improvised)" and the nipple I will use for the LRT (yes, that's 10 feet). I apologise in advance for the poor quality of the shots. I took them with a 7 year old digital camera. I will not use this for my writeup on how to make it though. When I get my new camera I will replace these with better ones


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Old 09-15-2006, 05:04 PM   #38
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Will my "endcap" work? or is it going to burst when pressure is near it? I am asking because I didnt see any of the hose clamps in the size that I was looking for, but I wasn't looking too hard. If I see any, I will buy them though
sorry bout doouble post- again
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Old 09-16-2006, 08:13 AM   #39
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The £4 check valves were brass, sprung loaded, double check valves.

In other words, they have two seperate one-way valves inside (not uncommon) for better performance, and they'll take a lot of pressure without trouble.

They come at about the same price as 1/2" ball valves from the store (£4.05), which isn't shabby. (The 1/2" ball valves are a similar price to internet variants - the 3/4" ones aren't quite such good value.)

I haven't yet found cheaper 1/2" check valves shipping within the UK.
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Old 09-17-2006, 06:48 AM   #40
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Is that store a UK/Europe only store, or is it also in North america?
Anyways, I'm going to look around today, look for better values, and see if my local Home Hardware has ball valves or check valves
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Old 09-17-2006, 02:33 PM   #41
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It's my local DIY - I doubt that it's even a local chain, let alone UK-wide...
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Old 09-19-2006, 06:00 AM   #42
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Ok, thanks

I went to home depot, and they only had 1 1/4" check valves, but I need something like 3/4" or something, unless I get a bushing to adapt it to 1/2". I have the 3" PVC, with a plug, and 3 endcaps, which I can just stick on to the pump with one, and maybe have the other placed about 1 1/4" away from one side of the LRT, giving it room to expand. I am putting this on hold, as I need smaller check valves, and will be finding a plumbing store or something, probably by next week.
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Last edited by CROC : 09-24-2006 at 07:43 AM.
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Old 12-09-2006, 08:29 PM   #43
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EDIT:**Sorry for bringing up a dead topic, but**
I am putting the production of the CPH Array gun off until the winter is over. I don't mean I will stop looking for parts, but I will not start building until it starts to warm up. I could put the pump inside the PC side of my gun, as I have 3" PVC, not 2.5". When I get to a plumbing store or something, I will look for check valves, but when I am assembling it, I might put in an elbow to be space conservative. Any ideas, so that when I start it in the spring/summer, I will know what to do?
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Old 12-10-2006, 11:43 AM   #44
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Don't really have any more suggestions. Had you changed the plans for the design? Just wondering.

I do want to say that I think using a modified 2" tee would be better than 3" or even 2.5" PVC. The ID of the tee sockets is the OD of the 2" tubing it slides over, except for the parts in the middle. You take a file and file down the rim in the middle, so that it's a constant OD through the straight part. That should allow you to have it slide over the reservoir, and would be tighter and just better than huge tubing.

Next, you would have to create the pump handle. I would get a 2"-to-3/4" bushing to convert the sizes. For the bushing, cut off most of the length of tubing that goes into 2" sockets. And for the 2" pump tee, cut off most of the length of the socket where the pump handle will be. These cuts will shorten the amount of space required for the bushing, and it will still be strong enough for the handle.
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Old 12-16-2006, 12:53 PM   #45
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Really, if I can find it, a modified 4" tee would be fine, but I still need check valves and valves, I just have PVC and LRT right now, so when I get those items, I will start creating it, but will not cement it until it warms up (brr!).
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