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| | #1 |
| Back from the dead. Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: bay area, CA
Posts: 387
UserID: 345 | Okay guys, the problem is that one of the pipes of my mxl broke in a very difficult to patch place. Picture: ![]() As you can see, it broke at a t-junction in a bad place. (Look for the big hole.) I've tried epoxy, superglue, and pvc cement, it's not working. Unless someone has an idea, I think I might get fiberglass or CF sheets with epoxy and use that for reinforcement. PS: Sorry for the image quality, webcam, go figure. PPS: Yes I know the MXL is a virtually useless field gun, but I'm OCD about fixing stuff, and I want it to work. PPPS: I'm not accepting offers to purchase it, so don't ask. This gun has sentimental value, and looks like a corroded...uh...ugly thing. PPPPS: Why won't it let me use html? Last edited by Ben : 03-22-2008 at 07:54 PM. |
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| | #2 |
| Founder Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Maryland
Posts: 5,793
UserID: 1 | vBulletin doesn't allow HTML by default because it opens up a lot of security problems. I'll edit your post to use the [img] tag and then edit in a response. Here's a few pages to check out: http://www.sscentral.org/repairs/joint_crack.html http://www.sscentral.org/repairs/glue.html http://www.sscentral.org/repairs/cracked-plastic.html Putty epoxy, epoxy, small brass tubing, and sandpaper are your friends here. While I would prefer a more detailed image to give better help, you should be able to make some sort of brace/sting/reinforcement with small brass tubing, epoxy that on, epoxy on the other part of the tee, and then cover the entire thing in putty epoxy. There's more information about stuff like this in the links above. Putty epoxy alone around the entire thing should work too if you want something simpler. Take some pictures of the repair and write an article. The more articles we have the more people we can help. ![]()
__________________ Ben Trettel / email: ben at sscentral dot org Please read this page before emailing me. Last edited by Ben : 03-22-2008 at 07:58 PM. |
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| | #3 |
| Back from the dead. Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: bay area, CA
Posts: 387
UserID: 345 | Just out of curiosity, how did you remove the glue that was already on the valve when you disassembled it in the third article? Maybe Not all valves have glue. Anyway, I'll see what I can do about it. Thanks! |
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| | #4 |
| Founder Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Maryland
Posts: 5,793
UserID: 1 | I sanded it off (or tried to) the second time around. Coarse sandpaper should work. You also can use acetone as said in the glues article. Try both, but be aware that both can and will cause damage to the plastic if done in excess. Do enough to get the glue off, and no more.
__________________ Ben Trettel / email: ben at sscentral dot org Please read this page before emailing me. |
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| | #5 |
| Back from the dead. Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: bay area, CA
Posts: 387
UserID: 345 | I see. Thanks! So if you can sand it I'm assuming they don't glue things very well? |
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| | #6 |
| Founder Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Maryland
Posts: 5,793
UserID: 1 | You can get some epoxy off with sandpaper by hand. It is hard but not impossible. If you took a dremel with a sanding bit to it you could probably remove it all, but you'd likely remove things you need unless you were extra careful.
__________________ Ben Trettel / email: ben at sscentral dot org Please read this page before emailing me. |
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| | #7 |
| Back from the dead. Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: bay area, CA
Posts: 387
UserID: 345 | I tried zap-a-gap (superglue) with insta-set, it appears to have sealed fairly well, so we'll see. Edit: UPDATE: It held together the pieces, but I missed a spot so it's leaking. I will get it fixed eventually. Last edited by Hunt_and_Annoy : 03-23-2008 at 07:14 PM. |
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