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Old 06-21-2007, 02:56 PM   #16
Ben
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I just realized something. Allthread would work, but how would you get a trigger on? Maybe a peice of metal and some nuts? Or you could drill a hole in another rod (wood or metal) and then use nuts and washers to hold it on. But then the trigger would be really wide, hmm.

My plan was to use an aluminum strip with a hole in it that is slightly too small for the allthread. You can then use the threads to tap threads in the aluminum. I've done this before to make handles and other stuff (mainly for some photographic equipment). Works great. A nut on each end would keep it from spinning. The aluminum where the trigger would be would be pretty wide, but you can change it on the trigger part pretty easily. Just cut off what you don't want and file the burrs smooth.
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Old 06-22-2007, 11:33 AM   #17
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As for getting a trigger on the threaded rod, you could use an eyebolt...

with a nut on either side, if the ID of the pipe would accomodate the OD of the eye. Otherwise, I think I'd drill the rod and insert (using JB Weld) a smaller rod for the trigger.

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Old 06-22-2007, 08:57 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Ben
That's very similar to what I meant. Mine uses two inch diameter pipe for the valve part due to the fact that the 1 inch to 2 inch bushings have a flat 1 inch hole, eliminating the need for the washer (and probably helping flow and the seal). My trigger was located differently too, but I like this one better.

Two inch pipe for the tee? I was thinking about that and looking at parts today. I thought of another way that would work, but would only be efficient on smaller pipe with a nozzle because of the work involved. basically, instead of a washer, you sand down the outside of a plug, cut it in half, and put the closed part in the tee. Then you put in the pipe after it, and drill a hole in the plug. Then it's flat all the way across, and you can get the right size hole you want. But it's a lot of work, and only worth it if you want to save the space.

Also, you said that you had the trigger located differently. I can't think of it anywhere else; where did you have it?
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Old 06-23-2007, 12:39 PM   #19
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I wouldn't use a 2-inch tee. That'd be bulky. I'd step the pipe down to 1-inch and then use a smaller tee. I just like the amount of space in the two inch pipe.

"Trigger location" wasn't very good wording. My design just had the trigger outside of the PVC with no handle. The only real difference is the addition of a handle here, which I think is a brilliant idea. For some reason I didn't consider making the handle part of this at all.

Today I constructed two test seals for my Nerf gun's pressure chamber just to see how this work would. It seals perfectly and the construction was as easy as it could be! I'm really glad it worked this well. Now the only part I need to worry about sealing is the moving seal near the trigger, and I'm not too worried about that at all. I should finish this Nerf gun within the next week. The only problem right now is that I have to work... I'll see you guys Sunday afternoon.
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Old 06-23-2007, 12:45 PM   #20
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What size of bushings did you use for the trigger, 1" to 1/2"? The bushings I've seen that step down from 1" have very little edge and are inset quite a bit (not flush with the end of the bushing) which means the trigger would have to be pulled back a long way for good flow.
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Old 06-24-2007, 07:05 AM   #21
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I'm not using any bushings for the trigger area. That area will be made with 1-inch pipe.
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