Check Valve Transplant

[The Stealthy Panda]

My Monster X doesn't work. It depressurizes at an absurd rate, to the point of uselessness. After thinking long and hard about the symptoms, I came to the conclusion that the problem was with the Pressure Release Valve, or "Check Valve", as it is improperly known. I considered CVFing it, but I assume that would disable the quick fill abilities. I then decided that I would replace the check valve with one I froze from my now retired CPS 2100 about a week ago. With a little sanding, 1/2 inch PVC fits around the pipe on either side of the check valve, and when epoxied should provide a dubious seal. I haven't performed the transplant yet, so please give me some pointers.

[Ben]

Welcome to Super Soaker Central!

I don't think anyone's tried a transplant, so I don't think anyone will have any specific tips. The only tip I can think of is to be sure to sand all areas where epoxy will go. That and to be aware that the opening pressure of the CPS 2100's valve may be different than the Monster X's.

If you don't get a good seal, simply freeze the valve. Though, you probably could have figured that out yourself.

Good luck! Get us some pictures and let us know how it goes.

Also, could you write a guide if you wouldn't mind? I'm sure we all would appreciate one. I could put the guide on our website on the next update (which should come... eventually).

[Silence]

Welcome to the forums!

Most newcomers don't really apply creative thinking. It should work though, as the pressures aren't too high.

[The Stealthy Panda]

IT WORKS!! BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAA! Yeah, I'm happy. I got it to work on the first try, which almost never happens to me! (My CPS 21k still doesn't work, and I've resealed that, like, five times.) I only pumped it about halfway, but I'm fairly certain of the seal. I'll have a guide on how I did it soon, as well as some pictures.

[Silence]

Nice!

What's wrong with your CPS 21K (congrats on the mod)? Is there a gaping crack in the internals? If so, maybe applying epoxy and then duct tape would help (just theorizing right now).

[The Stealthy Panda]

No, there's no visible break. It's been like this since I K-modded it. It shoots, but pumping it is a lot easier than Doom said it would be, and it only shoots about ten feet.

[The Stealthy Panda]

Well, here's how I did it, I don't have any pictures yet, though, because my dad won't let me use his digital camera.


Before you start:

Go to the main website. Click on Tech, then Modifications, then Check Valve Freezing. Look at the second picture. Both of my check valves were of this type, so if one of them is different, you should consider using another repair. However, if you're feeling adventurous, you could try using one of the other two check valve types, but make sure the pipe fits first, and I wouldn't mixing check valve types. Oh, and when I say check valve, I mean pressure relief valve (it's quicker to write).

what you need:
>1-2" of 1/2" PVC pipe
>something to cut the pipe with
>something to cut the SS internals with (could use same as pipe)
>epoxy
>spare check valve

Optional:
>clamp, opens at least 1 1/2" more than length of check valve
>thinking cap

Step 1: Cut out the check valve
Step 2: Measure the length of the little pipe thing on either end of the check valve, and cut the lengths of pipe to about a millimeter longer than that (this is to account for the length lost from cutting the pipe)
Step 3: Attach one of the rings of pipe to the check valve using rubber cement, maybe hold it together with the clamp.
Step 4: Apply a somewhat liberal amount of epoxy to the seams.
Step 5: Attach the remaining PVC ring to the appropriate side of where the check valve should be, using a liberal amount of epoxy.
Step 6: Sand and epoxy the contact points, and wiggle the whole unit together. Then epoxy the remaining joints.
Step 7: Test it.

Now I'm going to watch South Park. More on the topic at hand later.

[The Stealthy Panda]

Well, it turns out that the check valve was accidentally frozen anyway, probably from being too "liberal" with the epoxy. So I've decided to Collosus it.

[Silence]

Nice article. As Ben/Doom said in his post, he's interested in putting this up during the big site update if he has your permission. He's been a little too busy to post on the forums more than he has been.

Too bad the check valve froze in the process. I want to note, in case you ever need to use epoxy during modding/repairs, that it's usually best to not apply so liberally. A thicker blob isn't too much stronger - the epoxy would be likely to break off from the plastic altogether, not split. Also, the less you use, the closer together you can push the actual plastic (or PVC), and the stronger the bond.

Great article, and good luck with your Colossus! With the colossus, use talcum powder to slide on the inner tubing - because it's easier, and longer pieces are better as they expand lengthwise like they're supposed to.

If you're interested in modding, consider replacing the bladder completely. Ichabodv is still the only person to have done so, but it's still possible - just that he had no other option, and he had great results. Sounds like the gun is still pretty powerful, though.

[The Stealthy Panda]

Go right ahead! I'd love it if my inventions were featured on your site. Also, it turns out that the check valve wasn't frozen, it just had a much higher opening pressure, so I can have my Colossus mod without the gun exploding!


P.S. Also, a new way to check valve freeze: Saw a slit right at the front end of the check valve and shove in a bunch of epoxy.