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Old 02-24-2007, 07:57 PM   #1
WaterWolf
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Default Silver Bullet

This is a topic that is dedicated to the design and constructions of a "Silver Bullet Homemade", essentially the perfect rifle beam weapon.
I want ideas from anybody and everybody who has a brain.

In the past, I have used Blender-3D to make computer generated designs of water-weapons, so I could really SEE what the homemade would look like even before I build it.
I could use it for this project as-well, constantly changing and posting the design as its thought out.

So, I think the first thing we need to do is decide on what to aim for.

Range,
Size,
Price,
Type, (CPH, APH etc)
Water Load,
etc.

So fire away, give us all your ideas.
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Old 02-24-2007, 08:11 PM   #2
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Any thoughts on a Silver Bullet homemade line, as like a gun designed for practicality in one context is not going to be practical in another? My personal desires, as my fighting contexts are probably different than most:

Range: 55-60ft or more if possible. Extremely important to at least hit 55.

Size: Medium and fairly compact.

Price: Don't care [well to a certain extent].

Type: Don't care.

Water Load: Preferably a well-balanced, onboard reservoir.

Output: Don't care.

Weight: Medium.

Type of Trigger: Don't care.

Type of Pump: Something that is simple enough for a non-math person with a highly limited tool selection to build.

PC Size: Don't care.

Basically, I care about long range in a compact, fairly light gun with a good pump and the such.
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Old 02-24-2007, 08:24 PM   #3
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Well, this one got 60 feet, so thats not an impossible goal.

What you describe sounds like my Paladin design.
Its 32" long by 17" tall (Shorter if you want it); it has a 1/2" track pump; using data compared to the above linked to soaker, it should have 50 to 60 feet in range; an onboard reservoir that can fill the PCs ~3 times; and a fairly low price of $52.20.

Heres a 3D model of it.
Link.
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Old 02-28-2007, 05:40 AM   #4
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Why'd this discussion stop? I thought it was going somewhere good.

Does anyone else have any ideas for the "silver bullet" homemade water gun?
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Old 02-28-2007, 07:07 AM   #5
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Cool Hmm

IDK.
I'd thought we were off to a good start.

Ok, I'm now switching focus onto the actual technology behind the gun.
Throw us all your ideas, wether wild or sane.
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Old 02-28-2007, 04:34 PM   #6
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I've already put my ideas out, but I will elaborate a bit here.

The first thing we really must do is push for CPS homemade water guns. I see to be one of the few who has used LRT and I would like to see people use the more often. An LRT based design actually is less involved construction-wise than an APH and is also less prone to serious failure due to the use of the rubber tubing. This aids in what are two problems with homemade water guns to some: construction and safety.

An LRT based water gun also can easily perform better than another "APH" type design. The ranges I got three years ago are only a glimpse of the potential of such a design. I completely believe that a well made LRT-based water gun can get 65 feet of range and be as compact as possible. In fact, such a design can be made smaller than my current CPS water gun.

The CAP system also deserves visiting. This again is another subject where I am one of the few to dabble in. I know for a fact that such a design can easily get 65 feet of range. Power is no problem. This design however may be too involved for most to get into, but from my experience, this brings water wars onto another level. Some may not also like backpack designs, which are nearly necessary for all of the air storage. The advantages of such a design are not fully realized by most. I don't think everyone will adopt CAP water guns as quickly as LRT, but I do think they will be on the rise once I get an article written about them.
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Old 02-28-2007, 05:06 PM   #7
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I'm also won over by CPHs, although I have yet to build one. Definitely allows for more power and capacity, at least with 1/2" pumps.

CAP seems very expensive and heavy--definitely unconventional. Frankly, I don't even see myself lugging that thing around. But the system seems powerful, and I'd like to see how effective SuperCAP II is.

I just split the thread.
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Old 02-28-2007, 07:58 PM   #8
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Normally I do a great deal of homemade experimenting. I made numerous APHs chasing something that can't be accomplished with them. I've toyed with the idea of trying CPHs but have always been put off by the difficulty of finding tubing clamps and the such. I still don't even know how you attach the LRT to the thing, though Ben told me once, I forgot. Oh, and the LRT itself has been the largest problem. I am now of age to use Mcmaster-Carr with my own account, but haven't had time to get a credit card.

I don't think I'll ever use a CAP homemade. I don't build anything I can't use, and CAP guns by nature do not work in my progression level or park terrain. The power is impressive, but I couldn't see it on the Hardcore field of battle.
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Old 02-28-2007, 09:09 PM   #9
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Question

Excuse my lack of understanding, but whats an LRT?
From what you've said, it seems to have great potential. (If only I knew what it was )
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Old 02-28-2007, 09:25 PM   #10
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LRT stands for latex rubber tubing--it's basically just rubber tubing. You can order it from McMaster-Carr (a huge plumbing supply company) or a number of LRT-only manufacturers.

LRT comes in all different sizes, is cheap, and is high-quality. Beats old bike inner tubes by a long shot, especially if it's being used as a base PC instead of for colossusing. LRT is what's used in CPHs--search for constant pressure homemades to see more about them.

By the way, there's a link in my sig to the acronym dictionary.
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Old 03-01-2007, 07:14 AM   #11
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I see.
I'd known for a long time about the uses of LRT, but I hadn't known that acronym for it.

Yes, I think that LRT would probably be the way to go, but lets bounce some other ideas around for a while.
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Old 03-04-2007, 12:56 PM   #12
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Post First model

Ok, I've drawn up a base model for us to work on.

I took some of it configuration from Dux's newest homemade.


Side.


Top.


Front.


All.

The two lower chambers are duel 3"x18" reservoirs.
Above them is a 3"x12" CPH pressure chamber, the 1" nozzle and a 1/2" track-pump.

Give me your opinions and changes to it, I'll add stuff that sounds like a good idea and we'll see how it looks then.

Last edited by WaterWolf : 07-31-2007 at 08:34 PM.
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Old 03-04-2007, 01:20 PM   #13
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I would prefer something with a better capacity, using tank-like shapes instead of PVC as the reservoir. (which would make it lighter and cheaper as well) Also, how does it pressurize? Doesn't look like LRT would fit in there, and a configuration with a piston to seperate air and water wouldn't work either.
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Old 03-04-2007, 02:05 PM   #14
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Inside the PC is the LRT, the pvc is just a protective shell.
The pump pulls water from the reservoirs and pushes it into the back end of the LRT. Then to fire, you open the valve at the front end and out comes the water under high pressures. This helps to give the water as smooth a ride as possible from bladder to nozzle.

I could lengthen the tanks some more if you really think you need it.
Right now, you can recharge the PC three times before needing a reload and if you're using tap shots, that can last quite a while.

What do you mean when you say "Tank like shapes" on the reservoir?

By the way, the arrows are to indicate the direction of check-valves.

Last edited by WaterWolf : 03-04-2007 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 03-04-2007, 02:24 PM   #15
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So basically, a piece of vinyl tubing is routed around the bottom to get to the PC. I think the tubing should go out and under the PVC instead of inside, so more room is available for expansion of the PC.

As for the reservoirs, I meant something like a 1 gallon container to serve as a reservoir, using a length of PVC takes up more space and is heavier, while not holding as much water. A 2ft piece of 3" PVC will only hold about 2.77 liters (3" is about 7.6cm and 2 ft is about 61cm, use the formula radius ^ 2 * pi * length to get volume; 1 cubic centimeter is equal to 1 mL, then convert that to liters.) while you could easily get a better, more spread out container holding more, while feeling a lot less lengthy.

If my calculations and/or conversions are off, do tell me what's wrong. Assuming they're correct, it's probably much better to use containers instead. The perfect cylinderical shape doesn't seem to work too well when you want more volume, though using 4" or 5" seems to be another considerable solution, as a 2ft piece of 4" holds about 4.89L and 2ft of 5" holds about 7.73L, but I would probably stick to using containers. However, I imagine they'd be pretty bulky and even heavier.
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