Super Soaker Central forums

C-A_99 · 11-06-2006, 06:02 PM

It's been like this for a long time, but I was too busy to really deal with it. (plus my flash flood is still with it on repairs) Here's a pic:

First it was starting to crack, then came completely apart when I was working with it carelessly. This isn't the first time, earlier the crack developed, and dispite the epoxy and steel piece I put on to reinforce it, it wouldn't hold. Superglue didn't do a good job either. So far I guess the best way is to build a new piece by using some steel and pliers, otherwise find another high-strength glue, put it together, and when using the steem plate, ring it all the way around and make it cover more.

Silence · 11-06-2006, 08:13 PM

Yup, Ben's metal piece method is the best way to do a trigger valve repair. Glue is much better holding pieces together against shear force than it is against tension.

That trigger looks like it's identical to the CPS 4100 (the rerelease for SoakerTag, at least)--it's really flimsy. I don't know what they were thinking, just that the two models came out together. They must have been designed by and not tested by the same people.

DX · 11-06-2006, 08:55 PM

That must be from a mark 2. I don't recall ever seeing a 2100 trigger which looks like that. It does look exactly like a 4100 mark 2 trigger, except being slightly thicker. Use the metal strips, but also don't forget to use multiple coats of glue. I'd use at least 3 if you want it to last for a while.

C-A_99 · 11-06-2006, 10:27 PM

It is indeed a mk2, a pain to open up. Doesn't have good stream lamination either and I think something's wrong with the PRV, it gradually lets pressure out when it builds, and with just a 15 balloon K-mod, the PRV relieves pressure after about 2 pumps, not nearly enough to build adequete pressure. (without balloons it takes about 17-20 pumps for the PRV to kick in) I'm not too concerned about the K-mod, I'll just fix up the trigger and get it over with. I have guns I could K-mod. (a 1000 and a 1200, but they're different mk's, ones that are harder to open up)

These trigger pieces are like the spring piece on the Flash Flood's thin stream trigger. I'm not sure if you guys have seen it but the connection is very loose where the spring wraps around to connect to the other pieces, it's no surprise so many people have had theirs break.

Silence · 11-07-2006, 11:31 AM

The PRV isn't slowly releasing pressure. It's just that CPS isn't always constant--not until the 3rd pump or so. As soon as you get to the 3rd pump, the pressure with 15 balloons is too high and the PRV just releases everything. Take off a few balloons at a time until it works.

C-A_99 · 11-30-2006, 08:32 PM

Ok, dad repaired it. He put 2 strips to the 2 sides of the pieces to keep them together, using gorilla glue. (this is slightly different than the strip used before, and the strip used in the trigger repair article on this site) The glue has been allowed to dry for about a day, and seems firm when I examined it.

On a side note, my 2700's spring behind the trigger piece makes noises when you push the trigger, as if the spring isn't aligned correctly. I just want to confirm that this is normal and won't cause damage.

DX · 11-30-2006, 08:43 PM

I'd add a bit more glue as insurance if I were you. My 2500 trigger seemed rock solid after my repair, but it did break in the middle of a war, not once, but 5 times [in the same war].

The 2700 spring is probably fine. If you suspect it is out of line, you can open the gun and simply adjust it without much difficulty. Either way, there's no way a spring out of line can possibly do any sort of damage to a trigger.

C-A_99 · 11-30-2006, 10:23 PM

Yeah, the trigger and the metal still has a small space somewhere. I'll have a look at it again later. For the 2700, I meant if the noise and the seemingly slight misalignment (that I can't confirm) can damage the spring, currently I'm too lazy to try to open it, though I may have to eventually. (I also might drill the 2x to a 20x if I have time later. As usual, I'm just doing what I can)

wetmonkey442 · 12-02-2006, 09:52 AM

I'm glad to hear the trigger repair went smoothly. I don't know if more glue is neccessary, but it's definently better to be safe than sorry. As far as the spring is concerned, I'd readjust it just to be sure. If it's been pushed back before you closed the shell together, it could be pinned right now between the two plastic shells. This could damage the integrity of the spring. Likewise, it could be slightly out of place in the pocket, and if drops out it might fall to the bottom of the shell (that's a long way down in a 2700 shell

). However, although this wouldn't damage your soaker, if your trigger spring suddenly isn't there, that'll be a rude surprise during any water fight.

Silence · 12-02-2006, 12:21 PM

Sorry for not responding earlier...it's been really windy, so Adelphia was having some problems.

Nice to know you fixed it, and I hope it will reliably stop the trigger from breaking again. That metal strips/Gorilla glue combination should work fine, although more glue really doesn't hurt, as the others have said. Good luck!

C-A_99 · 12-05-2006, 04:06 PM

On the 2nd pic, there seems to be a bit of a gap, I might try to fill that up, after that I'll probably put it back into the gun.

11-06-2006, 06:02 PM	#1
C-A_99 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: MI, US Posts: 470 UserID: 809	2100 broken trigger piece It's been like this for a long time, but I was too busy to really deal with it. (plus my flash flood is still with it on repairs) Here's a pic: First it was starting to crack, then came completely apart when I was working with it carelessly. This isn't the first time, earlier the crack developed, and dispite the epoxy and steel piece I put on to reinforce it, it wouldn't hold. Superglue didn't do a good job either. So far I guess the best way is to build a new piece by using some steel and pliers, otherwise find another high-strength glue, put it together, and when using the steem plate, ring it all the way around and make it cover more. __________________ http://hbww.fateback.com/index.html Website w/ info on teams, armory, etc.

11-06-2006, 08:13 PM	#2
Silence Administrator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Virginia Posts: 3,293 UserID: 576	Yup, Ben's metal piece method is the best way to do a trigger valve repair. Glue is much better holding pieces together against shear force than it is against tension. That trigger looks like it's identical to the CPS 4100 (the rerelease for SoakerTag, at least)--it's really flimsy. I don't know what they were thinking, just that the two models came out together. They must have been designed by and not tested by the same people. __________________ Forum rules

11-06-2006, 08:55 PM	#3
DX Wicked Super Admin Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Easton / New London, CT Posts: 1,576 UserID: 75	That must be from a mark 2. I don't recall ever seeing a 2100 trigger which looks like that. It does look exactly like a 4100 mark 2 trigger, except being slightly thicker. Use the metal strips, but also don't forget to use multiple coats of glue. I'd use at least 3 if you want it to last for a while. __________________ Mess With the Best, Get Soaked Like the Rest!! 2004 Red Sox - World Series Champions 2007 RED SOX - WORLD SERIES CHAMPIONS! 2003 Patriots - Super Bowl Champions 2004 Patriots - Super Bowl Champions 2007 Patriots - God Damnit! If I change my sig, will the world end?

11-06-2006, 10:27 PM	#4
C-A_99 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: MI, US Posts: 470 UserID: 809	It is indeed a mk2, a pain to open up. Doesn't have good stream lamination either and I think something's wrong with the PRV, it gradually lets pressure out when it builds, and with just a 15 balloon K-mod, the PRV relieves pressure after about 2 pumps, not nearly enough to build adequete pressure. (without balloons it takes about 17-20 pumps for the PRV to kick in) I'm not too concerned about the K-mod, I'll just fix up the trigger and get it over with. I have guns I could K-mod. (a 1000 and a 1200, but they're different mk's, ones that are harder to open up) These trigger pieces are like the spring piece on the Flash Flood's thin stream trigger. I'm not sure if you guys have seen it but the connection is very loose where the spring wraps around to connect to the other pieces, it's no surprise so many people have had theirs break. __________________ http://hbww.fateback.com/index.html Website w/ info on teams, armory, etc.

11-07-2006, 11:31 AM	#5
Silence Administrator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Virginia Posts: 3,293 UserID: 576	The PRV isn't slowly releasing pressure. It's just that CPS isn't always constant--not until the 3rd pump or so. As soon as you get to the 3rd pump, the pressure with 15 balloons is too high and the PRV just releases everything. Take off a few balloons at a time until it works. __________________ Forum rules

11-30-2006, 08:32 PM	#6
C-A_99 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: MI, US Posts: 470 UserID: 809	Ok, dad repaired it. He put 2 strips to the 2 sides of the pieces to keep them together, using gorilla glue. (this is slightly different than the strip used before, and the strip used in the trigger repair article on this site) The glue has been allowed to dry for about a day, and seems firm when I examined it. On a side note, my 2700's spring behind the trigger piece makes noises when you push the trigger, as if the spring isn't aligned correctly. I just want to confirm that this is normal and won't cause damage. __________________ http://hbww.fateback.com/index.html Website w/ info on teams, armory, etc.

11-30-2006, 08:43 PM	#7
DX Wicked Super Admin Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Easton / New London, CT Posts: 1,576 UserID: 75	I'd add a bit more glue as insurance if I were you. My 2500 trigger seemed rock solid after my repair, but it did break in the middle of a war, not once, but 5 times [in the same war]. The 2700 spring is probably fine. If you suspect it is out of line, you can open the gun and simply adjust it without much difficulty. Either way, there's no way a spring out of line can possibly do any sort of damage to a trigger. __________________ Mess With the Best, Get Soaked Like the Rest!! 2004 Red Sox - World Series Champions 2007 RED SOX - WORLD SERIES CHAMPIONS! 2003 Patriots - Super Bowl Champions 2004 Patriots - Super Bowl Champions 2007 Patriots - God Damnit! If I change my sig, will the world end?

11-30-2006, 10:23 PM	#8
C-A_99 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: MI, US Posts: 470 UserID: 809	Yeah, the trigger and the metal still has a small space somewhere. I'll have a look at it again later. For the 2700, I meant if the noise and the seemingly slight misalignment (that I can't confirm) can damage the spring, currently I'm too lazy to try to open it, though I may have to eventually. (I also might drill the 2x to a 20x if I have time later. As usual, I'm just doing what I can) __________________ http://hbww.fateback.com/index.html Website w/ info on teams, armory, etc.

12-02-2006, 09:52 AM	#9
wetmonkey442 Super Moderator Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 256 UserID: 47	I'm glad to hear the trigger repair went smoothly. I don't know if more glue is neccessary, but it's definently better to be safe than sorry. As far as the spring is concerned, I'd readjust it just to be sure. If it's been pushed back before you closed the shell together, it could be pinned right now between the two plastic shells. This could damage the integrity of the spring. Likewise, it could be slightly out of place in the pocket, and if drops out it might fall to the bottom of the shell (that's a long way down in a 2700 shell ). However, although this wouldn't damage your soaker, if your trigger spring suddenly isn't there, that'll be a rude surprise during any water fight. __________________ Join the fight! Support water warfare in your area today! Downpour-A Reliable Source of Water Warfare Information

12-02-2006, 12:21 PM	#10
Silence Administrator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Virginia Posts: 3,293 UserID: 576	Sorry for not responding earlier...it's been really windy, so Adelphia was having some problems. Nice to know you fixed it, and I hope it will reliably stop the trigger from breaking again. That metal strips/Gorilla glue combination should work fine, although more glue really doesn't hurt, as the others have said. Good luck! __________________ Forum rules

12-05-2006, 04:06 PM	#11
C-A_99 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: MI, US Posts: 470 UserID: 809	On the 2nd pic, there seems to be a bit of a gap, I might try to fill that up, after that I'll probably put it back into the gun. __________________ http://hbww.fateback.com/index.html Website w/ info on teams, armory, etc.

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