Super Soaker Central forums

Silence · 07-04-2006, 02:37 PM

It's not that surprising, but don't be disheartened. I'm sure you'll get it working with enough glue inside the crack rather than on top. Indeed, it is far more effective to have a thin layer than a thick one where possible; and also, it is far more effective to have glue clamped and being pushed across a surface than poured on and being pushed off a surface. Remember to use the clamp as you did earlier, and if you have any more, put clamps all around the edge. In most repair cases, only one is needed; but all repairs are different, and this is huge. Good luck!

Ben · 07-04-2006, 03:55 PM

Hmm, I didn't think the Splashzooka would do that. My K-modded CPS 27000 stood up longer than that and it's valve was paper thin.

Might be worth it to try putty epoxy if the second time breaks too. I have no experience with the stuff myself, but from what I've heard it's perfect for filling in holes. It appearently is this clay like stuff that sticks to anything and gets rock solid when it dries.

Worse case scenario is that the valve can't be used. You can replace the valve with a PVC assembly, or if you don't want to go that route, I'm sure someone else here would buy the water gun from you. I would offer to buy it myself, but I need my money to repair a few of my own water guns.

joannaardway · 07-04-2006, 04:21 PM

I've used epoxy putty many a time.

I've even concocted a mix which is a lot tougher for use in pressure situations. It uses a different balance of hardener and putty, a mix of standard epoxy glue, sand, and finally, spider web.

Spider web might sound like a joke, but the toughest substance known to man (capable of rebounding a nuclear shockwave back) contained spider web.

My best mix so far has withstood 300 psi with no trouble.

Lucius Octavion · 07-06-2006, 10:33 PM

Why exactly does the trigger valve need to be sanded?

joannaardway · 07-07-2006, 04:38 AM

To give a clean surface to glue to and remove any old glue.

That help?

Drenchenator · 07-07-2006, 09:11 AM

The entire trigger valve does not need to be sanded. Only the part that you will apply the glue to will need to be sanded. The glue needs a clean surface to bond to. Sanding the area will also "open the area up" and make the glue bond better. This step is listed in the glue instructions.

Lucius Octavion · 07-07-2006, 12:24 PM

Oh I see that, its just I was confused about if you needed to sand the whole thing or not.

JLspacemarine · 07-07-2006, 07:25 PM

Finally, my splashzooka seems to be repaired. I can fill it, and shot with no loss of power. But there is two minor problems:

-Once filled, I can hear leaking inside the gun (ssssss...). It seems to be a very little water leak but it leaks a lot on my hands.

-Sometimes, when I pull the trigger, it continues to shoot with the trigger released until there is no more water in the gun, even when I try to pull the trigger again! It can be pretty annoying.

So, is there anything else to do with that?

Silence · 07-07-2006, 08:01 PM

I'm glad you got (most of) it fixed! For the smaller water leak, follow the method I had described earlier. I hadn't expected that the main leak would have been so obvious, which is why you could disregard the entire leak-finding process. In this case, however, you'll have to do that: open up the soaker and make sure everything is dry inside. Then, use the QFD, and look for any signs of leaking. If you can't see any, then shoot and look for the signs again.

Does the trigger stay depressed on those occasions when the soaker continues to shoot, or does it pop out? I'm not thinking of any specific problem (yet), but knowing this could help. You could also look for the problem when the soaker is open, though it might be harder to find if it doesn't happen all the time. Also, there's a small possibility (and a coincidence) that you might need to do an open trigger valve repair. If the problem never arises with the soaker open, then maybe something is touching the whole trigger/trigger valve mechanism when you put the case back together. You might not have put the case back together properly, so it might actually work with luck once you put it back together a second time

. Anyway, good luck!

JLspacemarine · 07-07-2006, 09:52 PM

I've just found the source of leaking, It is at the tip of the glued crack. But is it better to remove all the glue on the leaking space to reglue it? Or adding some glue on the surface of it is sufficient? Or maybe removing ALL the glue and start over? I'm not sure of what to do because the rest of the crack is perfectly sealed.

I didn't found any trigger problem that would explain why it sometimes continues to shoot.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilentGuy

Does the trigger stay depressed on those occasions when the soaker continues to shoot, or does it pop out?

The (orange) trigger itself release normally (It doesn't block). I'm not sure but the inner trigger seems to block once the orange trigger is released. I've just had an idea to prevent it blocking: Maybe if I add a spring like on the picture. It would probably force the trigger valve to close when I release the trigger.

http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?i...trigger2hp.jpg

Is this a good idea?

Silence · 07-08-2006, 11:12 AM

Unfortunately, I really don't know what to say about whether you should start over from scratch or not. Maybe pictures would help, but you could try just putting glue on top and trying to get it inside as much as possible. If that doesn't work, then you'll have to start from scratch. I guess such large cracks are hard to seal properly.

Yup, what you're describing about the firing problem is an open trigger valve repair. I can't imagine that having two problems is a likely coincidence (oxymoron there), but this must be what's been happening. Here's what you do: open up the soaker again, and depress the trigger. If it continues to shoot/the trigger valve doesn't close, then press on the trigger valve. If the valve only closes when you press on it, then you need to do this repair.

JLspacemarine · 07-14-2006, 12:27 AM

Finally, now it is fully sealed, fully working, fully repaired! I had to do an open trigger valve repair and reglue the crack for about 3 times, but it worked! Thanks for the help guys!

Also, a good friend of mine just gave me two of his super soakers two days ago

, saying that they were useless because they are broken and he don't play with them anymore. It is a CPS 1200 (grey and purple) and a SC 400: 2000 edition (he also said that he had a SC power pack a long time ago but now he don't know where it is). I'm pretty happy of both guns, even broken. But now the SC 400 is already repaired, only an open trigger valve repair was needed. But the CPS 1200 is a bit hard to repair, because the only thing that broke the gun is rust: every metal part of the gun totally rusted. Only to open it I had to drill out 7 of the 17 screws holding the soaker in one piece. I think it is possible to get a good repair, but I think I'll need some help to fix this rust problem. I'll start a new thread for this soaker (or maybe continue on this one, just tell me what's better

).

joannaardway · 07-14-2006, 06:10 AM

Your choice with regards to a new topic.

It sounds like you need a good de-rusting product... but I thought all SS were made with stainless steel?

07-04-2006, 02:37 PM	#16
Silence Administrator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Virginia Posts: 3,293 UserID: 576	It's not that surprising, but don't be disheartened. I'm sure you'll get it working with enough glue inside the crack rather than on top. Indeed, it is far more effective to have a thin layer than a thick one where possible; and also, it is far more effective to have glue clamped and being pushed across a surface than poured on and being pushed off a surface. Remember to use the clamp as you did earlier, and if you have any more, put clamps all around the edge. In most repair cases, only one is needed; but all repairs are different, and this is huge. Good luck! __________________ Forum rules

07-04-2006, 03:55 PM	#17
Ben Founder Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: College Park, Maryland Posts: 6,054 UserID: 1	Hmm, I didn't think the Splashzooka would do that. My K-modded CPS 27000 stood up longer than that and it's valve was paper thin. Might be worth it to try putty epoxy if the second time breaks too. I have no experience with the stuff myself, but from what I've heard it's perfect for filling in holes. It appearently is this clay like stuff that sticks to anything and gets rock solid when it dries. Worse case scenario is that the valve can't be used. You can replace the valve with a PVC assembly, or if you don't want to go that route, I'm sure someone else here would buy the water gun from you. I would offer to buy it myself, but I need my money to repair a few of my own water guns. __________________ email: / Forum rules / Read this page before emailing me. Do not send me a PM or email with a water gun question if someone else could answer the question. Post at the forums. You will get a response from me along with others' views or ideas.

07-04-2006, 04:21 PM	#18
joannaardway Do not adjust your TV set Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: SW Hertfordshire, England Posts: 875 UserID: 549	I've used epoxy putty many a time. I've even concocted a mix which is a lot tougher for use in pressure situations. It uses a different balance of hardener and putty, a mix of standard epoxy glue, sand, and finally, spider web. Spider web might sound like a joke, but the toughest substance known to man (capable of rebounding a nuclear shockwave back) contained spider web. My best mix so far has withstood 300 psi with no trouble. __________________ "Over the hills and far away, she prays he will return one day. As sure as the rivers reach the seas, back in his arms again she'll be." - Over the Hills and far away, Gary Moore "So many people have come and gone, their faces fade as the years go by. Yet I still recall as I wander on, as clear as the sun in the summer sky" - More than a feeling, Boston

07-06-2006, 10:33 PM	#19
Lucius Octavion Octavion with an "O" Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 33 UserID: 764	Why exactly does the trigger valve need to be sanded? __________________ Guns in possession: Speed Loader Double Cross 3000, 2 Speed Loader One Thousands, SS XP 110, Splashzooka, used to have more but they were unfixable.

07-07-2006, 04:38 AM	#20
joannaardway Do not adjust your TV set Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: SW Hertfordshire, England Posts: 875 UserID: 549	To give a clean surface to glue to and remove any old glue. That help? __________________ "Over the hills and far away, she prays he will return one day. As sure as the rivers reach the seas, back in his arms again she'll be." - Over the Hills and far away, Gary Moore "So many people have come and gone, their faces fade as the years go by. Yet I still recall as I wander on, as clear as the sun in the summer sky" - More than a feeling, Boston

07-07-2006, 09:11 AM	#21
Drenchenator Administrator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Maryland Posts: 718 UserID: 320	The entire trigger valve does not need to be sanded. Only the part that you will apply the glue to will need to be sanded. The glue needs a clean surface to bond to. Sanding the area will also "open the area up" and make the glue bond better. This step is listed in the glue instructions. __________________ The Drenchenator, also known as Lt. Col. Drench.

07-07-2006, 12:24 PM	#22
Lucius Octavion Octavion with an "O" Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 33 UserID: 764	Oh I see that, its just I was confused about if you needed to sand the whole thing or not. __________________ Guns in possession: Speed Loader Double Cross 3000, 2 Speed Loader One Thousands, SS XP 110, Splashzooka, used to have more but they were unfixable.

07-07-2006, 07:25 PM	#23
JLspacemarine Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Québec, Canada Posts: 105 UserID: 752	Finally, my splashzooka seems to be repaired. I can fill it, and shot with no loss of power. But there is two minor problems: -Once filled, I can hear leaking inside the gun (ssssss...). It seems to be a very little water leak but it leaks a lot on my hands. -Sometimes, when I pull the trigger, it continues to shoot with the trigger released until there is no more water in the gun, even when I try to pull the trigger again! It can be pretty annoying. So, is there anything else to do with that? __________________ Armory: AS Hydroblitz (x2), MI FlashFlood, STE TripleShot, XP Backfire, XP 215, XP 105, XXP 175, Big Bottle BLaster(x2), SC Power Pak, SpeedLoader1000, SpeedLoader 1500, SpeedLoader Double-Cross 3000, CPS Splashzooka (x2), CPS 1200, CPS 1500, CPS 2000 Mk2, CPS 2100

07-07-2006, 08:01 PM	#24
Silence Administrator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Virginia Posts: 3,293 UserID: 576	I'm glad you got (most of) it fixed! For the smaller water leak, follow the method I had described earlier. I hadn't expected that the main leak would have been so obvious, which is why you could disregard the entire leak-finding process. In this case, however, you'll have to do that: open up the soaker and make sure everything is dry inside. Then, use the QFD, and look for any signs of leaking. If you can't see any, then shoot and look for the signs again. Does the trigger stay depressed on those occasions when the soaker continues to shoot, or does it pop out? I'm not thinking of any specific problem (yet), but knowing this could help. You could also look for the problem when the soaker is open, though it might be harder to find if it doesn't happen all the time. Also, there's a small possibility (and a coincidence) that you might need to do an open trigger valve repair. If the problem never arises with the soaker open, then maybe something is touching the whole trigger/trigger valve mechanism when you put the case back together. You might not have put the case back together properly, so it might actually work with luck once you put it back together a second time . Anyway, good luck! __________________ Forum rules

07-08-2006, 11:12 AM	#26
Silence Administrator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Virginia Posts: 3,293 UserID: 576	Unfortunately, I really don't know what to say about whether you should start over from scratch or not. Maybe pictures would help, but you could try just putting glue on top and trying to get it inside as much as possible. If that doesn't work, then you'll have to start from scratch. I guess such large cracks are hard to seal properly. Yup, what you're describing about the firing problem is an open trigger valve repair. I can't imagine that having two problems is a likely coincidence (oxymoron there), but this must be what's been happening. Here's what you do: open up the soaker again, and depress the trigger. If it continues to shoot/the trigger valve doesn't close, then press on the trigger valve. If the valve only closes when you press on it, then you need to do this repair. __________________ Forum rules

07-14-2006, 12:27 AM	#27
JLspacemarine Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Québec, Canada Posts: 105 UserID: 752	Finally, now it is fully sealed, fully working, fully repaired! I had to do an open trigger valve repair and reglue the crack for about 3 times, but it worked! Thanks for the help guys! Also, a good friend of mine just gave me two of his super soakers two days ago , saying that they were useless because they are broken and he don't play with them anymore. It is a CPS 1200 (grey and purple) and a SC 400: 2000 edition (he also said that he had a SC power pack a long time ago but now he don't know where it is). I'm pretty happy of both guns, even broken. But now the SC 400 is already repaired, only an open trigger valve repair was needed. But the CPS 1200 is a bit hard to repair, because the only thing that broke the gun is rust: every metal part of the gun totally rusted. Only to open it I had to drill out 7 of the 17 screws holding the soaker in one piece. I think it is possible to get a good repair, but I think I'll need some help to fix this rust problem. I'll start a new thread for this soaker (or maybe continue on this one, just tell me what's better ). __________________ Armory: AS Hydroblitz (x2), MI FlashFlood, STE TripleShot, XP Backfire, XP 215, XP 105, XXP 175, Big Bottle BLaster(x2), SC Power Pak, SpeedLoader1000, SpeedLoader 1500, SpeedLoader Double-Cross 3000, CPS Splashzooka (x2), CPS 1200, CPS 1500, CPS 2000 Mk2, CPS 2100

07-14-2006, 06:10 AM	#28
joannaardway Do not adjust your TV set Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: SW Hertfordshire, England Posts: 875 UserID: 549	Your choice with regards to a new topic. It sounds like you need a good de-rusting product... but I thought all SS were made with stainless steel? __________________ "Over the hills and far away, she prays he will return one day. As sure as the rivers reach the seas, back in his arms again she'll be." - Over the Hills and far away, Gary Moore "So many people have come and gone, their faces fade as the years go by. Yet I still recall as I wander on, as clear as the sun in the summer sky" - More than a feeling, Boston

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