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Old 06-29-2006, 12:56 AM   #1
House01
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Default XP 250 Repair

When I pump my XP 250, water leaks out of the nozzle without me pulling the trigger (handle).

I purchased it in 1996 at an outlet mall in Indiana. It had a small leak right from the start, but it became unusable after a couple of years.

I came across this site and some others when looking for reviews of the current models. Based on those, I picked up a Flash Flood and a couple of Max-D 3000s for some 4th of July fun with my nephews. The site also got me thinking about my old XP 250 sitting idle.

So far, this is the info that I've found on isoaker.com for possible repair:
"Older pressurized reservoir models control their water exiting the nozzle by a mechanism which pinches the soft, plastic tubing inside the blaster. At times, however, this mechanism loses its strength and is no longer able to pinch the tube properly, resulting in the continuous stream. The only remedy in this case is to open the blaster and look for the tube pinching device. It may need to be assisted in closing the tube when the trigger is not in use by attaching rubber bands to it. This, however, does not always work effectively and it may be in one's better interest to simply retire that blaster and purchase a newer, better built blaster."

Does anyone have more detail on this repair? A picture of the pinching mechanism, or the size of rubber bands needed would be helpful.

I will try to repair it this weekend and will take some pictures to post.

Thanks,

House
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Old 06-29-2006, 04:11 AM   #2
joannaardway
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I am not an expert with the XP 250, but that handle would seem to suggest a ball valve arrangement to me.

However, I've never had a soaker that operated like this, so I can't really help until I know more.
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Old 06-29-2006, 08:38 AM   #3
House01
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Thanks for the reply. I'll take a look at ball valve repair info before I take it apart.
I suspect the pinching mechanism because it's such an old soaker and because it's always leaked to some degree. Does anyone know when they moved to the ball valve?

Thanks,

House
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Old 06-29-2006, 09:18 AM   #4
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The most likely problem is that the gears were misaligned from the start. Here's a page on repairing the handle (not this problem, but these images may help) that has a few good images of a similar water gun: http://www.angelfire.com/sports/gng/...estoration.htm

There is no tubing to pinch in this model. I believe they changed the valve intentionally on the larger older model water guns because the ball valve can handle more pressure and was more durable.

I'd suggest opening the water gun and investigating from there. If a ball valve is used, it shouldn't leak from the nozzle unless the valve is not closed completely. I won't be here to offer my advice afterwards because I'm leaving very soon, but this'll definitely get you started.

If you do find the problem, post some pictures and a thing or two about how you fixed it. We're working on a brand new repair center and I want to have every repair discussed on these forums in it (my list has about 25 problems and potential repairs for each one now).
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Last edited by Ben : 06-29-2006 at 10:46 AM.
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Old 06-29-2006, 10:30 AM   #5
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Ball valves are only used on max-D type (trigger makes loud noise) and the soakers with the "arm" that is pulled (no trigger)

The pinch type - I don't know when it went out, but I would guess 1993-1994 - I would like to be corrected if this is incorrect.
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Old 06-29-2006, 02:56 PM   #6
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Sounds like an open trigger valve to me. Check out the repair article--while the article involves using a spring or rubber band on a soaker with a pull valve (easier to attach a trigger to, found in all modern commercial soakers), it shouldn't be too hard to rig something up for your soaker.

The pinching mechanism is terrible, but it is shown in the HowStuffWorks water gun article. At any rate, no matter what's in your soaker, open up the gun and see whether the valve closes completely. If and when it doesn't, look for the mechanism problem of where the faulty joint is. If you need further help from us regarding exactly how to fix whatever the problem is, a picture would probably be helpful unless it's a blazingly obvious problem. Anyway, good luck with the repair!
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Old 06-30-2006, 12:40 AM   #7
House01
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Thanks guys.

I found a picture on isoaker.
http://www.isoaker.com/Armoury/soake...soakerID=xp250

As you can see, it has an arm, or handle instead of a normal trigger. The similarity with the XXP 275 make me think that is what I will be looking at, but we'll see when I open it up. I'm not sure if I will get to it this weekend, but I will take pictures to post when I do. The HowStuffWorks article was very interesting.

House
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Old 07-01-2006, 08:50 AM   #8
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Here's a better image: http://ca.geocities.com/maddmaxstar/...c-xp/xp250.htm

At this point, I'm thinking that there either is a damaged or missing spring in there to return the handle to the original position, or the screws are misaligned so the valve is opened to begin with.

For the rubber band repair on this, you wouldn't even need to open the water gun! However, that would only work if the valve handle could not be pushed forward fully. Can the valve handle go as forward as it should?

Thanks for the willingness to take pictures as well. Anything you do will help others repair in the future, especially with our new repair center coming up!
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