Super Soaker Central forums

Silence · 05-22-2006, 04:43 PM

Thanks for all the information, guys. I guess this means I won't be able to use a solenoid, as they are only effective in releasing air pressure in WBLs, and they will create massive amounts of turbulence in homemade soakers. Of course, I planned to use a waterproof plastic case and tons of electrical and duct tape to get a waterproof design, but that won't matter anyway. I'll just stick with metal ball valves for now.

mr. dude · 05-23-2006, 12:07 PM

I'm planning on building an APH, and I found everything except reducers and PVC check valves. I did find a brass 1" check valve, but that was for $40, so I didn't buy that.
If I still can't find check valves, would substituting them with ball valves work? My idea is to put a ball valve where the check valves are supposed to be, and while I'm pumping, open the one near the reservoir. When I'm done pumping I'd shut that valve and open the one near the PC's. Would this work properly?

Silence · 05-23-2006, 04:09 PM

No, that's a bad idea. First of all, you'll be happy when you find a good PVC check valve (hint: you only need something 1/2-3/4" in diameter, unless you want an APWL-type cannon); second, this is going to take far too much trouble when operating. You'll have to be creating more pressure than there is inside the PC as long as the valve is open, so that means you'll have to start pushing, then open it, and before the pressure drops at all, close the ball valve. This is a very poor solution; you could try McMaster-Carr if you really need the check valves now.

Besides, if you're going to have to wait for the reducers, why not wait for the check valves, too?

mr. dude · 05-23-2006, 04:24 PM

Would using a fast opening valve like a sprinkler valve be better than a ball valve? I have seen sprinkler valves at home depot so that shouldn't be a problem.

Silence · 05-23-2006, 04:29 PM

Do you mean using a sprinkler valve instead of a ball valve instead of a check valve? If so, then no--just keep on looking for a check valve or order one online (off the Lowes site or McMaster-Carr, if possible). For shooting, [hopefully metal] ball valves will suffice, and they'll also give you laminar flow. Even if you just wanted a quick-opening valve for a WBL, a solenoid would be a better choice.

Ben · 05-23-2006, 05:34 PM

Check valves and ball valves are completely different and not interchangeable. Check valves are one way valves - you would need to turn both ball valves in a special sequence for ball valves to replace check valves. Not a good idea.

Fast opening valves shouldn't offer any advantage in water guns really, so it would simply be best to use an easier and cheaper ball valve. Pull valves also are options that trade a slight decrease in performance for ease of use, but very few have used them other than the Drenchenator.

Also, as SilentGuy has mentioned, McMaster-Carr does offer both reducers and check valves. Having ordered both from them I can tell you that they'll be exactly what you're looking for.

05-22-2006, 04:43 PM	#16
Silence Administrator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Virginia Posts: 3,285 UserID: 576	Thanks for all the information, guys. I guess this means I won't be able to use a solenoid, as they are only effective in releasing air pressure in WBLs, and they will create massive amounts of turbulence in homemade soakers. Of course, I planned to use a waterproof plastic case and tons of electrical and duct tape to get a waterproof design, but that won't matter anyway. I'll just stick with metal ball valves for now. __________________ Forum rules

05-23-2006, 04:09 PM	#18
Silence Administrator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Virginia Posts: 3,285 UserID: 576	No, that's a bad idea. First of all, you'll be happy when you find a good PVC check valve (hint: you only need something 1/2-3/4" in diameter, unless you want an APWL-type cannon); second, this is going to take far too much trouble when operating. You'll have to be creating more pressure than there is inside the PC as long as the valve is open, so that means you'll have to start pushing, then open it, and before the pressure drops at all, close the ball valve. This is a very poor solution; you could try McMaster-Carr if you really need the check valves now. Besides, if you're going to have to wait for the reducers, why not wait for the check valves, too? __________________ Forum rules

05-23-2006, 04:29 PM	#20
Silence Administrator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Virginia Posts: 3,285 UserID: 576	Do you mean using a sprinkler valve instead of a ball valve instead of a check valve? If so, then no--just keep on looking for a check valve or order one online (off the Lowes site or McMaster-Carr, if possible). For shooting, [hopefully metal] ball valves will suffice, and they'll also give you laminar flow. Even if you just wanted a quick-opening valve for a WBL, a solenoid would be a better choice. __________________ Forum rules

05-23-2006, 05:34 PM	#21
Ben Founder Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: College Park, Maryland Posts: 6,042 UserID: 1	Check valves and ball valves are completely different and not interchangeable. Check valves are one way valves - you would need to turn both ball valves in a special sequence for ball valves to replace check valves. Not a good idea. Fast opening valves shouldn't offer any advantage in water guns really, so it would simply be best to use an easier and cheaper ball valve. Pull valves also are options that trade a slight decrease in performance for ease of use, but very few have used them other than the Drenchenator. Also, as SilentGuy has mentioned, McMaster-Carr does offer both reducers and check valves. Having ordered both from them I can tell you that they'll be exactly what you're looking for. __________________ Note: I am busy so if I am slow to respond, be patient. email: ben at sscentral dot org / Forum rules / Read this page before emailing me. Do not send me a PM or email with a water gun question if someone else could answer the question. Post at the forums. You will get a response from me along with others' views or ideas.

05-23-2006, 12:07 PM	#17
mr. dude Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 127 UserID: 572	I'm planning on building an APH, and I found everything except reducers and PVC check valves. I did find a brass 1" check valve, but that was for $40, so I didn't buy that. If I still can't find check valves, would substituting them with ball valves work? My idea is to put a ball valve where the check valves are supposed to be, and while I'm pumping, open the one near the reservoir. When I'm done pumping I'd shut that valve and open the one near the PC's. Would this work properly?

05-23-2006, 04:24 PM	#19
mr. dude Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 127 UserID: 572	Would using a fast opening valve like a sprinkler valve be better than a ball valve? I have seen sprinkler valves at home depot so that shouldn't be a problem.

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