Using CPS 2000 valve/nozzle assembly, also any '06 updates

[dragonclass]

Since there seems to evidence that the nozzle designs on CPSs are what actually restrict performance, has anyone done a mod yet that replaces say a 2700's valve with a 2000's or at least modified the nozzle(like replacing a newer nozzle's swiss-cheese block or shower-head laminators with the 2000's straw set-up). On the other subject, has anyone come across info(patents/people you know) on what's going to be out for the 2006 line(STE??). Thanks, Brad

[Drenchenator]

has anyone done a mod yet that replaces say a 2700's valve with a 2000's

I do not know if anyone has done a valve replacement modification, but I do not believe that if would really have any effect. These pictures should help explain:

CPS 2500 Internals
CPS 2700 Internals

The CPS 2500 is basically the same as the 2000. If you look at the valves, you notice that both of them work by pulling on a lever which in turn pulls on a disk with an o-ring attached that seals the valve. Once the disc is retracted back far enough, the valve is opened. The valves are almost identical. The only real way to improve the valve would be to make it have more linear flow (like a ball valve). Therefore, I would think that replacing the CPS 2700 with a CPS 2000 valve would just be a waste of time (and a waste of a CPS 2000). It is possible to do that, but I don't think that it would be useful.

nozzle designs on CPSs are what actually restrict performance

I do not believe that this is true. Most nozzles have screens or straws that increase stream lamination, which does not restrict performance. If you really think that the nozzle is what decreases performance, Doom wrote an article about making nozzle selectors for stock water guns.

If you are interested making a new nozzle like how it is described in the article, you could also include some scraws. A diagram of how the CPS 2000 and CPS 2500 have their straws oriented is available here.

If you are really interested in improving your water guns performance in other ways, you can visit these two other pages (also by Doom):

Streams
Additives

Edit: If you want to find out about the 2006 Super Soaker Line, you could try to check the US Patent Office website, Hasbro usually patents their products.

[dragonclass]

The straw diagram and performance results of the "2250" speak volumes(it should have been stronger...instead it acted like a typical 2500 because it used the 2500's nozzle). It seems everyone mods the check-valve and PCs, when the focus should be on the nozzles. The 2500 has the two main straws, while the 2000 has one main straw that does not split the stream and cause turbulence. Look at the 1000 or 2700, they have a black block in there that has holes, more restriction. The same with the 4100, 2100, and monster series' shower-head looking set-up. I mean, this is kind of like NASCAR and their restrictor plates...please safety officials by making things less efficient and therefore less performance. Or like installing a turbo or supercharger, but use the stock airbox instead of a cone filter...horribly inefficient. But this could just be my opinion, who knows, Brad

[Ben]

I personally believe that the PC and valves determine much more about performance than nozzle setup. A poor nozzle setup will reduce performance, but not at the level you're thinking about. A completely bad nozzle setup will do that.

If you cared about nozzle performance a lot in a store-bought water gun, do the nozzle modification Drenchenator recommended and then buy part number 7678T2 at McMaster-Carr. In homemade water guns, I would suggest the larger and more expensive part number 6484T22. These nozzles focus the water stream and reduce turbulance to increase water pressure at the nozzle. There's a reason the second one is used on fire trucks.