Could someone tell me how to get the orange caps that are welded onto the end of the 100 off? It has 3 that keep the gun together after all the screws removed. I need to repair the threaded piece that holds in the spherical chamber. It was tightened too much and split the plastic.
They are the 3 orange bits on the left side of this gun image.
The part that is split is the green bit under the rear tank, the floor of it is split off of the threaded part.
SS 100 Opening
- Silence
- Posts: 3825
- Joined: Sun Apr 09, 2006 9:01 pm
Welcome to the Super Soaker Central forums!
Have you tried used a flathead screwdriver or something else with a thin, flat tip? Those can be effective for prying off pieces. I like to use jewelers' screwdriver sets (which we use for glasses, small screws, musical instruments, etc.) so I can start with a tiny tip and use a larger tip after I've pried the orange piece off a bit. Be sure to pry from different locations around the rim.
If that doesn't work, the only option is to cut the cap. Take a metal/band/hack/whatever-you-call-it saw and cut straight down the middle of the orange cap, aligned to where the crack between the two shells of the case is.\
Good luck!
Have you tried used a flathead screwdriver or something else with a thin, flat tip? Those can be effective for prying off pieces. I like to use jewelers' screwdriver sets (which we use for glasses, small screws, musical instruments, etc.) so I can start with a tiny tip and use a larger tip after I've pried the orange piece off a bit. Be sure to pry from different locations around the rim.
If that doesn't work, the only option is to cut the cap. Take a metal/band/hack/whatever-you-call-it saw and cut straight down the middle of the orange cap, aligned to where the crack between the two shells of the case is.\
Good luck!
- isoaker_com
- Posts: 458
- Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 12:00 pm
Silent Guy pretty much covered what steps can be done to help remove the orange caps. While I haven't opened an SS100, I've found that if both halves of the casing are completely unscrewed and can move apart from where caps are gluing it together, some gently prying combined with added force from twisting the blaster halves can help dislodge glue. Of course, how forceful one should be really depends on the remainder of the casing and whether any other parts of the soaker are being stressed. In the end, it may be safe to take a coping saw and cut the cap carefully.
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- C-A_99
- Posts: 1502
- Joined: Tue Aug 01, 2006 11:09 pm
For aggressive cap removal, another method is taking a flat-head screwdriver and a hammer and creating a seam that follows the seams in the frame of the gun. (the seam that's in between the 2 pieces held by all the screws) This method may be slow, and you have to be a little careful, but it's mess free, great for smaller spaces where a saw won't fit, and easier to avoid hitting something you don't want to. (in most cases)
However, attempting to pry off should always be the first step. Get aggressive with prying if needed. (like on the CPS 1200's nozzle cap)
However, attempting to pry off should always be the first step. Get aggressive with prying if needed. (like on the CPS 1200's nozzle cap)