2100 broken trigger piece

Repairs to water guns. Please put repair topics in this forum so that people do not have to sort through so many topics when looking for a repair. If a fix is included in the topic, please add (Fixed) before the topic title to indicate so.
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C-A_99
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2100 broken trigger piece

Post by C-A_99 » Mon Nov 06, 2006 11:02 pm

It's been like this for a long time, but I was too busy to really deal with it. (plus my flash flood is still with it on repairs) Here's a pic:

Image

First it was starting to crack, then came completely apart when I was working with it carelessly. This isn't the first time, earlier the crack developed, and dispite the epoxy and steel piece I put on to reinforce it, it wouldn't hold. Superglue didn't do a good job either. So far I guess the best way is to build a new piece by using some steel and pliers, otherwise find another high-strength glue, put it together, and when using the steem plate, ring it all the way around and make it cover more.

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Silence
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Post by Silence » Tue Nov 07, 2006 1:13 am

Yup, Ben's metal piece method is the best way to do a trigger valve repair. Glue is much better holding pieces together against shear force than it is against tension.

That trigger looks like it's identical to the CPS 4100 (the rerelease for SoakerTag, at least)--it's really flimsy. I don't know what they were thinking, just that the two models came out together. They must have been designed by and not tested by the same people. ;)

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DX
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Post by DX » Tue Nov 07, 2006 1:55 am

That must be from a mark 2. I don't recall ever seeing a 2100 trigger which looks like that. It does look exactly like a 4100 mark 2 trigger, except being slightly thicker. Use the metal strips, but also don't forget to use multiple coats of glue. I'd use at least 3 if you want it to last for a while.
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Post by C-A_99 » Tue Nov 07, 2006 3:27 am

It is indeed a mk2, a pain to open up. Doesn't have good stream lamination either and I think something's wrong with the PRV, it gradually lets pressure out when it builds, and with just a 15 balloon K-mod, the PRV relieves pressure after about 2 pumps, not nearly enough to build adequete pressure. (without balloons it takes about 17-20 pumps for the PRV to kick in) I'm not too concerned about the K-mod, I'll just fix up the trigger and get it over with. I have guns I could K-mod. (a 1000 and a 1200, but they're different mk's, ones that are harder to open up)

These trigger pieces are like the spring piece on the Flash Flood's thin stream trigger. I'm not sure if you guys have seen it but the connection is very loose where the spring wraps around to connect to the other pieces, it's no surprise so many people have had theirs break.

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Silence
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Post by Silence » Tue Nov 07, 2006 4:31 pm

The PRV isn't slowly releasing pressure. It's just that CPS isn't always constant--not until the 3rd pump or so. As soon as you get to the 3rd pump, the pressure with 15 balloons is too high and the PRV just releases everything. Take off a few balloons at a time until it works.

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Post by C-A_99 » Fri Dec 01, 2006 1:32 am

Ok, dad repaired it. He put 2 strips to the 2 sides of the pieces to keep them together, using gorilla glue. (this is slightly different than the strip used before, and the strip used in the trigger repair article on this site) The glue has been allowed to dry for about a day, and seems firm when I examined it.

On a side note, my 2700's spring behind the trigger piece makes noises when you push the trigger, as if the spring isn't aligned correctly. I just want to confirm that this is normal and won't cause damage.

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DX
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Post by DX » Fri Dec 01, 2006 1:43 am

I'd add a bit more glue as insurance if I were you. My 2500 trigger seemed rock solid after my repair, but it did break in the middle of a war, not once, but 5 times [in the same war].

The 2700 spring is probably fine. If you suspect it is out of line, you can open the gun and simply adjust it without much difficulty. Either way, there's no way a spring out of line can possibly do any sort of damage to a trigger.
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Post by C-A_99 » Fri Dec 01, 2006 3:23 am

Yeah, the trigger and the metal still has a small space somewhere. I'll have a look at it again later. For the 2700, I meant if the noise and the seemingly slight misalignment (that I can't confirm) can damage the spring, currently I'm too lazy to try to open it, though I may have to eventually. (I also might drill the 2x to a 20x if I have time later. As usual, I'm just doing what I can)

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Post by wetmonkey442 » Sat Dec 02, 2006 2:52 pm

I'm glad to hear the trigger repair went smoothly. I don't know if more glue is neccessary, but it's definently better to be safe than sorry. As far as the spring is concerned, I'd readjust it just to be sure. If it's been pushed back before you closed the shell together, it could be pinned right now between the two plastic shells. This could damage the integrity of the spring. Likewise, it could be slightly out of place in the pocket, and if drops out it might fall to the bottom of the shell (that's a long way down in a 2700 shell :p ). However, although this wouldn't damage your soaker, if your trigger spring suddenly isn't there, that'll be a rude surprise during any water fight.
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Silence
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Post by Silence » Sat Dec 02, 2006 5:21 pm

Sorry for not responding earlier...it's been really windy, so Adelphia was having some problems.

Nice to know you fixed it, and I hope it will reliably stop the trigger from breaking again. That metal strips/Gorilla glue combination should work fine, although more glue really doesn't hurt, as the others have said. Good luck!

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Post by C-A_99 » Tue Dec 05, 2006 9:06 pm

Image

Image

Image

On the 2nd pic, there seems to be a bit of a gap, I might try to fill that up, after that I'll probably put it back into the gun.

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