CPS 2100 leaks

Repairs to water guns. Please put repair topics in this forum so that people do not have to sort through so many topics when looking for a repair. If a fix is included in the topic, please add (Fixed) before the topic title to indicate so.
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C-A_99
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CPS 2100 leaks

Post by C-A_99 » Wed Aug 02, 2006 1:04 am

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The leak mostly came from there so I duck taped all the leaky spots later, but it didn't really work well so the tape was peeled off and the frame unscrewed. Here are some pics of the insides. They're basically the same thing taken at different angles. Sorry about the bad lighting.

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According to some info I read in the modding info section, that is the pressure relief valve. It looks like I'm better off sawing off the whole thing and sealing it up, in that case I'd need a hacksaw and some cement glue, otherwise I could just use epoxy to seal up the small crack without removing anything. I would like some info to exactly what removal of the valve will do (in terms of pumping and water pressure, I assume it makes pumping a bit harder but gives it more pressure)

On a side note, being new to the modding and repairs with water gun stuff, I don't really know the abbriviations used here.

Thanks in advance.
Last edited by C-A_99 on Fri Aug 04, 2006 8:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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SSCBen
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Post by SSCBen » Wed Aug 02, 2006 1:26 am

Welcome to Super Soaker Central!

You shouldn't remove that valve unless you did a modification to the pressure chamber. All the valve does is prevent you from pumping too much - when the pressure gets too high, it sends it back to the reservoir. The valve thinks the pressure is too high with a pressure chamber modification, so you should remove and seal off the area with those modifications.

I'd just seal the hole with epoxy. Remember to sand the area first and give it at least 24 hours to cure completely. You shouldn't have any trouble after that.

:)

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Post by C-A_99 » Wed Aug 02, 2006 1:41 am

I'm interested in doing the 21k mod but I don't have any modding experience at all so for now I guess I'll just epoxy it and use it for my next fight coming this sunday. Thanks.

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Silence
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Post by Silence » Wed Aug 02, 2006 3:38 pm

And anyway, that pressure release valve looks pretty "different" from what I've seen in my soakers and in the pictures of others' soakers. However, I don't actually have a CPS 2100, so it might just be like that.

At any rate, as Ben said, sand that are and fill it with epoxy. Try to jam as much epoxy into the crack as opposed to on top of it, as you'll have a much stronger repair that way. Also, it's a good idea to use a clamp to hold both sides of the crack together if required and possible.

From what I've heard, K-modding isn't too difficult; and more importantly, of course, a light K-mod (now recommended over a heavy K-mod) with few balloons (I believe it's around 30) doesn't even require a pressure release valve freeze (originally called a check valve freeze). However, if you're not comfortable with modding your soaker, then don't do it ;) .

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DX
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Post by DX » Wed Aug 02, 2006 9:51 pm

The pressure release valve in 2100s is as close to a standard as you're going to get. Similiar in the 2700, 1500, and dead identical in the 4100, 1000, and 1200, minus the coloring of the valves.

Get enough epoxy in the crack, but not so much that the inside pipe gets blocked. Depends on your type of epoxy really.

K-modding is fully reversable [AKA you can restore the soaker to stock as if you never attempted a k-mod]. You can also get plenty of power without doing a freeze on that pressure release valve. But as SilentGuy said, don't mod if you don't want to/are not ready to. There's no pressure to mod [bad pun].
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Post by C-A_99 » Wed Aug 02, 2006 10:16 pm

If I am able to do this either way, are there any specific type of balloons to use? For now, I assume what you do is to stretch the new balloons over it, but I'm not sure what kind of balloons I'm supposed to use. (if there's any specific type) Unfortunately, the nozzle and the end of the pump's track is preventing me from getting the black ball PC case out.

Thanks for the help/info so far.

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Post by Silence » Wed Aug 02, 2006 10:58 pm

Standard 12" balloons are used most often, and they're pretty cheap--but you could also try using 11" balloons. Some people (I can't remember who) have had success with 9" balloons, but not everybody can do that so using 9" balloons is probably stretching it (another bad pun in only three posts :p ).

Note that the 30-35 balloons I suggested refer to 12" balloons; if you use smaller balloons, then they might apply more force (consensus?), in which case you shouldn't use that many. Put on a good amount of balloons to start with, maybe forty, and if the pressure release valve activates after only a couple pumps, then remove a few.

Of course, not only does the modding decision involve technical skill, but it also involves priorities. K-modded soakers are far more powerful, but they decrease the potential PC size (as well as adding greater output, and both make the shot time smaller) and they often create excessive stream turbulence. But as Duxburian stated, there's nothing wrong with trying a K-mod and then removing the balloons.

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Post by C-A_99 » Wed Aug 02, 2006 11:18 pm

Well for now I can't get the PC case out, the nozzle and the end of the pump track preventing the 2 frame pieces from completely splitting apart. I didn't think it was a mark 2 but it probably is, the nozzle doesn't come off. Looks like I'm out of luck for this one, I'll just sandpaper and glue the thing together and move on. Thanks guys.

Edit: I just went to the stores and got some Epoxy. I was hoping to get a Defender and a Vaporizer but all of their water guns were on a clearance and all they had were the Oozinator and some shoot and block thing. Oh well, not going online either due to shipping costs, they (ebay, the online stores, etc) probably don't have them anyway.
Last edited by C-A_99 on Thu Aug 03, 2006 1:10 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by DX » Thu Aug 03, 2006 2:49 am

The pump cap, even if glued, can be pryed off with a screwdriver. You don't have to saw it. The large nozzle covering is fake. The actual nozzle is not attached to it, and splitting it reveals the inner nozzle assembly. The mark 2 nozzle is unique, but nothing compared to a 1200 nozzle, where you actually have to chip it away piece by piece. Splitting the 2100 nozzle seems like a piece of cake in comparison. Then again, I can understand if you would rather not split the outer nozzle.

K-modding ups range, stream speed, output, and power in exchange for lowering stream cohesion, shot time, and pc capacity. However, a light k-mod has less of an impact on pc capacity and cohesion. The Tap/Pump strategy can also eliminate shot time altogether, so you could minimize the downsides of the mod rather easily.

What you've got right now blows away all the guns you were considering buying. :p
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Post by C-A_99 » Thu Aug 03, 2006 4:27 pm

Well then I'm probably not going to rush for the power too soon, I'll probably be able to use my neighboor's CPS 2000 and 2500 anyways, if not then I guess I can use something else. I also kind of changed my mind about the oozinator, as stupid as it looks, it's also kind of funny and is something I'll try out. (it's the only thing left anyway, and it would be useful if the flash flood gets crapped up) The battle is within backyards so range and power aren't urgent things. If I do try the mod, my dad couldn't get the pump guide cap off, even with a hammer, and I don't think I'll split the front nozzle off either. For now the repairs should be enough since I'm too lazy to do all the other work, nor do I have time anyways.

Edit: I forgot to sandpaper the area around the crack, then dad applied the epoxy to it, and I used a hair dryer in an attempt to dry it up a bit faster. I'm going to test ot tomorrow. It's currently sitting in the garage and dad might have missed a little bit of the crack. That stuff (the stuff I bought) dries up pretty fast. On a side note, I found an oozinator, which was literally $6.30 on a clearance, and an extra ooze canister for about $1. Nevermind how gimmicky or dumb it probably is, I got a gun and an extra canister.

Edit: I assembled it together, but the trigger is weird. When I pull it, it doesn't really go back to it's original position correctly, requiring the user to manually push it back. I'm going to go outside and test how it fires now.

Edit: It seems to be all good now, the trigger seems to work better, and after spraying silicone lubricant, the pump is much easier to use. I should probably get the lube onto my neighboor's CPS 2000 and 2500 since those pumps are also have a lot of friction on them. The water gun fight I'm having is tomorrow so I'm getting prepped. Tomorrow me and my friend (who's also going to be in the fight) will fill the water balloons and I'll fill up and prime the blasters, as well as instructing the other users about keeping the blasters primed, etc.

Edit: Now the trigger doesn't close the release correctly, I pull the trigger and let go, but it continues firing until the pressure is out, then when I pump, water comes out the nozzle so I pull it back and fourth about 3 times to try to close it, then pump it up again. I'll have to have another look inside.

Edit: The gun still seems a bit leaky but I cannot pinpoint the source, all I know is that it's somewhere in the middle, and since it's a mark 2, I can't get the nozzle nor the end of the pump off to have a better look inside. (plus I want to do a light K mod on this but can't get the PC case open)
Last edited by C-A_99 on Wed Aug 16, 2006 3:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by C-A_99 » Wed Aug 23, 2006 11:30 pm

Sorry to double post but I haven't been getting replies and would rather not start a new topic. Right now I need to get the gun open, there is yet another more minor leak in it. Being the mk2 model, I assume you open it by using pliers for the nozzle and a hacksaw for the pump cap. (I can't pry the pump cap out and someone used pliers once for the nozzle) Then I submerge it in a water bucket to look for the leak, correct?

After I open it and epoxy the second leak I can then move onto a light (30-35 balloon) K mod.

Edit: The nozzle's been split with screwdrivers and pliers. For the pump cap, are you supposed to cut it right through the middle? That way it probably makes less of a mess but still gets the job done.

Edit: The pump cap got split too with a saw. Now I need to find the leak, probably lubricate the trigger system, and get some balloons. :)

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Edit: I found why it leaks. It's not really a leak actually, it's a problem with a valve that shuts and stops the PC from pushing air/water back into the main systems. Basically, if I pump it up about 5 times (without water, the whole thing's dry) it makes a weird squeeling noise. I wait a little bit, pull the trigger, and nothing happens. If I pull the trigger without waiting, I get the typical blast of air. I haven't thoroughly tested this with water but it probably does the same thing since I remember I would hear the noise when pumping last time I used it in a fight.
Last edited by C-A_99 on Wed Aug 30, 2006 7:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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