Broken 1200

Repairs to water guns. Please put repair topics in this forum so that people do not have to sort through so many topics when looking for a repair. If a fix is included in the topic, please add (Fixed) before the topic title to indicate so.
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Windoffire
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Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 11:05 pm

Broken 1200

Post by Windoffire » Mon May 07, 2007 12:16 am

Hi...I'm relatively new here
I joined because I thought you people were a good lot, but mainly because my trusty CPS 1200 (purple and silver) water gun has broken. I have no idea why - I used it every year during the summer and stored it in the garage during winter, and was fine, but sometime last year it began to fire withour me pulling the trigger - now it just fires every time I pump it. Does anyone know how I can fix this?
Last edited by Windoffire on Thu May 10, 2007 8:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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C-A_99
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Post by C-A_99 » Mon May 07, 2007 2:16 am

There are some articles around on this (too lazy to link to right now, sorry), basically, you open up the gun and put rubber bands over the trigger valve to help keep it shut.

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Silence
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Post by Silence » Mon May 07, 2007 9:23 pm

Welcome to Super Soaker Central!

Yep, check out the open trigger valve repair article. Check in the Tech>Repairs section of the main site.

You'll have to open up the water gun in order to access the parts. Either a spring or a rubber band will do; a rubber band might be easier, though, as those often don't require mounts.

Good luck!

Windoffire
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Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 11:05 pm

Post by Windoffire » Mon May 07, 2007 9:24 pm

Thanks a lot =]
I'll try freezing the vavle and k-modding,. but I'm afraid that it'll blow up and I'll be watergunless =(

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Silence
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Post by Silence » Mon May 07, 2007 11:44 pm

I'd try to get the trigger working first. :cool: Also, recent trends have involved only a few balloons and no PRVD (check my sig for acronym info), because more power isn't too necessary, it cuts down on PC volume, the chamber won't explode if the PRV is in place, there's less effort if you skip the PRVD, and guns are too expensive these days to replace them.

Windoffire
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Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 11:05 pm

Post by Windoffire » Tue May 08, 2007 1:05 am

Ok...I tried all day, laboring to get out the rusted screws and the very annoying 1200 nozzle. I managed to get it open with my dad, but the 1200 has no real palce to stretch a rubber band and keep it there - has anyone repaired a 1200 before? If so, can you write how you did it? I'm trying to Gorilla glue the round plastic washer to the metal pin, since it's apparent that the metal pin isn't going back in all the way for some reason. If I manage to get those pieces together then I can rubber band it, but ti's pretty squished in a 1200 and I think that maybe I'll have to glue a cut rubber band and somehow stretch it over the metal pin.

Gah, I'm not a very good engineer/mechanic

Oh, by the way, does anyone know if the new SS, the blitz something, is any good?

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JLspacemarine
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Post by JLspacemarine » Tue May 08, 2007 1:45 am

Well, looks like I'm well placed to help you, I have the same gun and got the same problems. When I got my CPS 1200 (gray/purple), every metal part, including screws, was damaged because of rust. It took me days just to open it, but was repaired after a few hours. The whole trigger mechanism was jammed, so I managed to place a rubber band in a tricky way and it worked. I'll have to open again it to verify how exactly. I'll post pics later this week.
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Windoffire
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Post by Windoffire » Tue May 08, 2007 1:50 am

Thanks a lot man
I had the same problem with the rust, same model too - I'd really appreciate the pictures =]

Windoffire
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Post by Windoffire » Tue May 29, 2007 8:10 pm

Ok I fixed it, and it works awesome...
Well, actually, my dad did most of it lol
I found that securing the rubber band to the sides was easier if done by plastic ties (the white traslucent ones that allow you to feed itself one way but not out), rather than duct tape which weakens.

Thanks guys =]

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Silence
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Post by Silence » Tue May 29, 2007 11:23 pm

Sounds good! Do you have any pictures of the white ties? I know what you're talking about - and they sound better since they won't stick to the rubber bands as the rubber bands stretch.

Windoffire
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Post by Windoffire » Tue May 29, 2007 11:27 pm

Image

These ones
Sorry I can't seem to be able to open it without great force, the rust is too much...>__<
If uber-necessary I'll open it up again but yeah..the rust + inexperienced screwdriver skills = bad screws

sorry..if anyone explicitly needs the pics then ask ok?

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Silence
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Post by Silence » Tue May 29, 2007 11:39 pm

If the rust is really bad, then it's possible that you've tried unscrewing so hard that the screw head has been damaged. I've done that countless times. In that case, you could try those special screwdriver heads designed for damaged screws, or you could use a regular drill and drill bit to drill through the screw (very easy if you have a powerful drill).

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RacerSoaker445
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Post by RacerSoaker445 » Tue May 29, 2007 11:41 pm

The scientific term is "zip-ties." :D

If you are having trouble with the screws, get them out and replace with new ones, which should be able to be found at any specialty hardware store. Try an Ace or Tru-Value. Home Depot and Lowes would most likely not carry them.
I don't check this forum anymore.

Windoffire
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Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 11:05 pm

Post by Windoffire » Tue May 29, 2007 11:46 pm

Hmm...wait, how does drilling it help again? by creating enough grooves for the screwdriver head to catch?

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DX
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Post by DX » Wed May 30, 2007 12:10 am

Drilling is usually a last resort, and usually destroys the screw hole. You can buy a phillips head drill bit and use it to reverse drill screws out, which saves the hole, but doesn't always work. Definitely replace the screws if they are too rusty. Good to see that the repair worked! :cool:
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