Colossus And Check Valve Freezing

Threads about water gun modifications.
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cronus973
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Post by cronus973 » Wed Jun 09, 2004 8:25 pm

hey, ive been lurking here since I picked up a cps 4100 the other day and decided to upgrade it. I didn't realize there was such a big community for super soakers and super soaker mods, heh.

anyway I opened up my cps 4100 and everything. I sawed the pc open since it was all permanently attached, but I can't remove the black piece on the end (the one with the orange stripe). I Don't wanna break anything so id appreciate some advice before I take a hacksaw to it or something.

also with the check valve, the setup I have in the 4100 looks much different than the one in the guide. I saw a post about a similar problem where the setup looked closer to what I have, but still different. are there any general rules for telling where the check valve is?

is there anyone here who has done these mods to a cps 4100? if neccessary ill post pics.

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Spinner
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Post by Spinner » Wed Jun 09, 2004 8:31 pm

Hi there and welcome to SSC. Make sure you have read and understood all the Board Guidelines. It's nice to see more people not afraid to open and modify their soaker(s).

As to your question, Doom and the others will be better equipped to answer your question - I've never used or opened a CPS 4100. However, it would be helpful if you could get pictures of the relevant parts.

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SSCBen
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Post by SSCBen » Wed Jun 09, 2004 8:39 pm

Hey, welcome to SSC. I haven't ever done a collosus mod to an SS gun, only homemades, but I can help you. I'll find a quote that should help (props to Excelite, too bad he doesn't post here much anymore).
I like the Collosus mod, because it is actually a fairly simple mod. As for getting at the rubber p/c, it's best to just take a hacksaw or dremel to the plastic housing. Just make an angle in your cut, or a triangle section (like you might do when cutting the lid of a jack o'lantern) so it's easy to line up when putting the gun back together. Just use duct tape to put the plastic housing back together. Don't bother with glue as you probably will go back inside to adjust your layers later.

As for the rubber sections, if you feel like struggling or want to waste a few hours use very long sections of rubber (4 - 10 cm).
Otherwise, cut 1 inch sections out of the bike innertube that look like an "O". Obviously, you want to put cylindrical sections around the p/c, not flat strips. Use an innertube that has approximately the same interior tube diameter as the p/c. Don't use a smaller one. I found that out when I wasted money on a small innertube.
http://www.isoaker.com/underground/mods/12kmod.cfm

Does that check valve look like that one? I've got some higher quality pics, I just haven't uploaded them yet. Speaking of that... if it's different can you take some pics, and can we use them in the check valve freezing article?

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RacerSoaker445
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Post by RacerSoaker445 » Wed Jun 09, 2004 9:14 pm

I sent in a nice pic for that when it was cut off and epoxied. Should be here soon.
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DX
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Post by DX » Wed Jun 09, 2004 9:33 pm

Ive "opened" my 4100 for repairs on the trigger and seen the check valve. yes, it is different from the one in Doom's article, but you can still figure it out. The check valves differ in appearence from gun to gun but the area you remove looks very similar. Study the area to cut in the article pic, and look hard at yours. Look for all the details. The area to cut out in your valve should look just like the articles area to cut out. Remember to look for ALL the features in the valve. If a part of your valve looks any different from the article pic, then it is probably wrong and Don't cut it. I could show you a pic of the check valve from my 4100, but I just finished repairs on it. Ive been opening my soakers all week and have gotten a bit tired of it. However, if no one else has a pic, I could get one.
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cronus973
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Post by cronus973 » Wed Jun 09, 2004 9:49 pm

the valve setup in the isoaker article was pretty much the exact same thing from what ive looked at so far. not planning on doing any cutting until im sure.

and with the black part, I could cut it apart but I just want to make sure that I wouldnt be permanently damaging anything. im not sure if it acts as a sealer for the cps tube or if it just attaches on there to act as a stopper and for the gauge reading.

I snapped some pics of everything im asking about. check out my pics

there are some pics of my spud gun on there too, one of my previous projects. im thinking of sticking a potato in there to seal it, then filling the barrel with water. wouldnt be safe for people but it would be an awesome output rating :)

and doomsoaker, you can use any of those pics on your site if you want.

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SSCBen
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Post by SSCBen » Wed Jun 09, 2004 10:50 pm

It wouldn't have very good range though. It would be what we call a riot blast, a high output, wide and messy shot. If you had no trouble making a spud gun then maybe you would want to try making a homemade soaker. ;)

blaze
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Post by blaze » Wed Jun 09, 2004 11:06 pm

Exactly. Doom nailed it. The reason you don't want to colossus and check valve freeze the CPS 4100 is because it already has an 8.5x blast that is wasted in 2 seconds because of its power and small PC. You mods may make it more powerful technically, but it would be useless since the 8.5x blast would last probably less than a second. Unless you can make some crazy mod where you enlarge the PC, the mod you are doing would only make the gun worse. I congratulate you for the effort, though.

cronus973
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Post by cronus973 » Wed Jun 09, 2004 11:11 pm

I had a pretty cool design for a soaker that would be hooked up to a hose and an air compressor, heheh. you would have to be tethered to the house the whole time so it wouldnt be practical, but it might be fun for a little while.

I had an idea to get around that stupid black thing at the end of the cps tube. I could cut pieces of innertube to the size of the cps, cut a slit down the side and use a tire patch kit to glue it back together over the original tube. id let it dry and repeat the proccess a whole bunch of times. any problems with this?

for the check valve, I think I have everything sorted out. the piece that needs to come off in the modification article is definitely there on mine, and its the same general section that is removed on the isoaker guide. shouldnt be difficult.

im starting on a backpack mod as I await the answer on my colossus workaround.

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SSCBen
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Post by SSCBen » Wed Jun 09, 2004 11:42 pm

Originally posted by blaze@Jun 9 2004, 06:06 PM
Exactly. Doom nailed it. The reason you don't want to colossus and check valve freeze the CPS 4100 is because it already has an 8.5x blast that is wasted in 2 seconds because of its power and small PC. You mods may make it more powerful technically, but it would be useless since the 8.5x blast would last probably less than a second. Unless you can make some crazy mod where you enlarge the PC, the mod you are doing would only make the gun worse. I congratulate you for the effort, though.
Blaze, I was refering to the spud gun. Collosused and K modded guns tend to have short shot time anyway, it doesn't matter when it's that short.\

Your idea would take a long time to do. I would do my idea for collosusing. Basically you buy some latex rubber tubing (from mcmaster.com) where the ID is larger than the OD of the CPS 4100's PC and then just slide that on it. It will be easy to put over (compared to more pieces) and it would have a large power up.

Don't do that backpack mod on this site. I need to create a better one. You should make your own out of PVC. ;)

cronus973
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Post by cronus973 » Thu Jun 10, 2004 12:10 am

hmm, I kinda liked the backpack mod on the site, since the garbage bag would collapse instead of creating a vacuum. if I was to make one out of pvc, I would need a special fitting to let air in and not out. I know what I need and how to do it, but I figured if I have heavy duty trashbags and a backpack that I might as well throw it all together.

as for the shot duration, im not overly interested in a lasting shot. I want something that hurts, heheh. im planning on making one of the nozzles extremely small in case I need a long shot, but im going to have big bore, riot blast, and keep the medium or the 8.5x. I figure ill use the small one for strategic shooting and the rest will be pure intimidation.

and for the colossus, the reason I wanted to slit them and glue them was because I can't slide them on top with that stupid black thing there. im afraid to hack it off since I might damage the pc. I could take your idea doomsoaker and use one piece of tubing from mcmaster, but id still have to slit and glue it. probably would be better in any case, ill look into it.

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SSCBen
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Post by SSCBen » Thu Jun 10, 2004 12:23 am

No, don't slit it. That won't work. It will just break. From what I know you could take that black thing off with enough effort, maybe you should try that.

Well, the main problem with the backpack mod was that no one understood what it was saying since I wrote the article really poorly. As long as you understand what is going on that should be fine. Btw, you could use a real check valve to let the vacuum out of a PVC backpack.

cronus973
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Post by cronus973 » Thu Jun 10, 2004 12:35 am

im not talking about slitting it, gluing it together and leaving it there. im talking about scuffing the whole pc and the whole piece of tubing and using the tire patch rubber cement to secure the entire thing. if the glue is good enough it should hold fine, I hope anyway.

just wanted to make sure you knew what exactly I plan to do. im hoping it won't break if the entire thing is attached. itll act more like a single piece of rubber rather than a sleeved one.

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SSCBen
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Post by SSCBen » Thu Jun 10, 2004 12:37 am

It won't work. The latex rubber tube is way too thick for that to work. And it's a different kind of rubber than the bike tubes from what I know, so the thing may not even work at all.

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