FF silent max-d trigger mod
- Hunt_and_Annoy
- Posts: 404
- Joined: Sat Feb 12, 2005 1:00 pm
The max-d trigger on my FF broke (max-d is XPBackfire-esque) so I found a mod to fix it. It also has the nice add-on of making it silent. I invented this mod because I wanted to still have the long range in max-d, but leave the loud noise, and wearing down over time behind. And I had a broken FF that needed fixing.
The frst thing you have to do is remove all the fancy stuff for the max-d trigger: the spring, the metal rods, and the plastic peice that is sort of covering the lever that opens the ball valve. Do NOT remove the lever that opens the ball valve! The only plastic piece you remove looks something like this:
Then you use rubber bands to hold the lever in the 'closed' postion. Make sure they're tight enough so if you pull the valve open and gradually let go it will close completely.
In order for this mod to be successful you must remove one of the plastic things that parts from the max-d trigger attached to, it will get in the way. The red outline is where it used to be one my FF.
next, put all the internalls back in the gun, and push the trigger forward as far as it will go, and measure the distance between the hole in the trigger where it used to connect to the valve and the hole in the valve lever. I got 4 cm for the FF. You will have to bend a piece of wire that will connect those two holes, it can't have any slack, because then the trigger won't be able to pull back far enough to open the valve completely.
that is what the bent wire should look like. you use the wire to connect the trigger to the valve.
The complete mod, showing where the valve should go. Note that this mod can be changed to fit any max-d gun. Also note that I modified my trigger so it could be pulled back furter.
This article is written for SSC becuase it is a tech oriented site, but if it is not put up in 2 months then I will give it to SM or hydrowar.
EDIT: hope you liked it, or at least understood it. <_<
The frst thing you have to do is remove all the fancy stuff for the max-d trigger: the spring, the metal rods, and the plastic peice that is sort of covering the lever that opens the ball valve. Do NOT remove the lever that opens the ball valve! The only plastic piece you remove looks something like this:
Then you use rubber bands to hold the lever in the 'closed' postion. Make sure they're tight enough so if you pull the valve open and gradually let go it will close completely.
In order for this mod to be successful you must remove one of the plastic things that parts from the max-d trigger attached to, it will get in the way. The red outline is where it used to be one my FF.
next, put all the internalls back in the gun, and push the trigger forward as far as it will go, and measure the distance between the hole in the trigger where it used to connect to the valve and the hole in the valve lever. I got 4 cm for the FF. You will have to bend a piece of wire that will connect those two holes, it can't have any slack, because then the trigger won't be able to pull back far enough to open the valve completely.
that is what the bent wire should look like. you use the wire to connect the trigger to the valve.
The complete mod, showing where the valve should go. Note that this mod can be changed to fit any max-d gun. Also note that I modified my trigger so it could be pulled back furter.
This article is written for SSC becuase it is a tech oriented site, but if it is not put up in 2 months then I will give it to SM or hydrowar.
EDIT: hope you liked it, or at least understood it. <_<
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- Posts: 257
- Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2004 12:00 pm
I don't mean to seem stupid, or anything, but is that black thing with a little hook the lever that opens the valve? It's kind of hard to see cause the whole thing is black. If you put this on the site then do something to indicate where the "lever" is. Other than that it's a pretty good article, and mod. I think the FF is coming closer to a CPS 2100 legend that will be modded past it's limits, which I like cause I actually have one this time. h34r:
EDIT:Is it hard to pull the trigger, because of the rubber bands?
EDIT:Is it hard to pull the trigger, because of the rubber bands?
Soak, or be soaked that is the question!
- Hunt_and_Annoy
- Posts: 404
- Joined: Sat Feb 12, 2005 1:00 pm
I will retake them asap (meaning whenever I bother to remember)
If u look at the bigger FF trigger, you will notice that it has one of those black pieces over the valve, and the green thing the spring goes to is the lever (that is on the riot blast valve) the mod is done on the normal valve. If you get a FF and open it up you will see the differance. I advise trying this mod on a FF before anything else if you don't quite understand the instructions, cause then the pics will be more useful. I don't think what I just said was very help ful...I will highlight the lever.
EDIT: the part surrounded in red is the lever that opens it.
I also nozzle drilled and CVFed this FF.
If u look at the bigger FF trigger, you will notice that it has one of those black pieces over the valve, and the green thing the spring goes to is the lever (that is on the riot blast valve) the mod is done on the normal valve. If you get a FF and open it up you will see the differance. I advise trying this mod on a FF before anything else if you don't quite understand the instructions, cause then the pics will be more useful. I don't think what I just said was very help ful...I will highlight the lever.
EDIT: the part surrounded in red is the lever that opens it.
I also nozzle drilled and CVFed this FF.
- Spinner
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- Hunt_and_Annoy
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- RacerSoaker445
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- Hunt_and_Annoy
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- Hunt_and_Annoy
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- SSCBen
- Posts: 6449
- Joined: Sat Mar 22, 2003 1:00 pm
Actually, I tried out an extremely similar modification in 2003 on my Max-D 6000. I planned to put it on SSCentral, however I didn't think it worked too well and I also didn't think it would be worth the work to make work better. Apparently your version works better.Originally posted by hunter@Apr 19 2005, 04:17 PM
Thanks! My first successfully invented mod! Yay! I am officially no longer a inexperienced user![snapback]24216[/snapback]
Also, hunter, please use the spell check! I periodically go through and spell check random posts to see if people are using it! There's a reason that frst, peice, postion, internalls, furter, becuase, u (especially this), differance, and help ful are not in the dictionary... it's because they aren't words. As it turned out, the spell check properly corrected most of these mistakes in less than a minute.
I hate to tell people to use the obvious, but when it does the work for them I feel I must!
- Hunt_and_Annoy
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- perilous1
- Posts: 79
- Joined: Sun Apr 10, 2005 1:22 am
The wire was bent right. The sound that come from the Flash Flood is from the valve opening and closing all the way, and I moved a rubber to where the valve opened and closed all the way, but the sound was very quiet, and I did that two days ago.Originally posted by hunter@Apr 20 2005, 02:00 PM
]EDIT: it could be that you didn't bend the wire just right. If it is a little too long it will only pull the valve halfway open.[snapback]24246[/snapback]
- Hunt_and_Annoy
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- Joined: Sat Feb 12, 2005 1:00 pm
- perilous1
- Posts: 79
- Joined: Sun Apr 10, 2005 1:22 am
I am talking about the regular fire, you are referring to the riot blast, which I give up on due to it's hopelessness, and can you at leasted try not to argue? Or at least do it politely.Originally posted by hunter@Apr 20 2005, 04:43 PM
The noise come from it opening entirely in a relatively fast amount of time. And your problem is with the FF valve, right? The range of movement for that trigger is not large enough to completely open the valve using the silent-type connection this describes. It would take a lot of modification.[snapback]24255[/snapback]