Super Soaker Central

Hey Guys,
I just got a CPS off eBay, and it will pump and everything else seems fine, but when I try to shoot it, the trigger has a lot more pressure, not like my CPS2500, I dont know what is wrong exactly, the trigger has a lot more tension on it than before, and the seller said it shot well before they shipped it. The pump is not stuck it continues pumping, and at a certain point you can hear a hissing. You can see that when you pull the trigger the valve mechanism moves, so I dont think it is the linkage. Water leaks out around the barrel end of the gun, but nothing comes out of the barrel. Any ideas of what this may be, and how I can fix it?

The hissing is normal, it's the pressure relief valve going in because you're pumping more than the standard amount that the valve allows. I'm not exactly sure about the stubborn trigger, but for the leak you might be able to tighten the screw on the nozzle selector to fix that. Try that and see how it goes, and if there's a problem, don't turn your nozzles around too much. Be sure the nozzles are correctly aligned.

You may want to wish for a more experienced person to come and post, just in case. I don't have a 4100 so I'm not exactly sure on it's layout, etc., I'm just going by the similarities to other guns I've worked with.

Welcome to the forums! Sorry to hear about the problems, but let's get started with the repairs.

Is it still pressurized? If so, it is extremely important to fix the problem as soon as possible.

For the moment, I'll take it for granted you have the rerelease--the Mark 2. It is infamous for a weak trigger, and you can bet that the trigger will break after a bit of regular use. It did for me, and I never saw it coming. You won't have that sense of urgency until it does break. I'll assume this is the immediate problem for the rest of my post.

The symptoms for me were a trigger that got harder and harder to pull, leading up to me having to use both hands to pull as hard and as far back as possible. It helps to pull at the top of the trigger, but don't try it--still too risky.

You'll have to open up the soaker. See the red, circular pump cap in front of the pump area? You'll have to saw it off, and trying to pry it off won't help or work at all. A clean cut actually doesn't look too bad. After you've sawed it off, unscrew all of the screws and tape them next to their screw holes so you don't lose them.

Once the side of the case is off, you should be able to see whitening of the plastic near the very, very thin strip connecting the trigger to the sliding piece. You'll have to reinforce it, but first things first.

If you have to release the pressure, this is what you do. Notice the pin with a spring behind the trigger valve--the valve is near the nozzle, and a circular lever piece is supposed to pull back on it when you pull the trigger.

You'll have to pull out the pin manually to release the water--don't do this inside. If it's hard to pull, stick the screwdriver into the hole at the top of the pulling lever and through to the hole in the far side of the case--there's a metal piece that does that when the case is closed. This should release the water.

Now you can fix the trigger--don't use it until it's reinforced. Get a strip or sheet of thin, flexible metal, and somehow shape it and glue/tape it such that it holds the parts of the trigger together securely. That tip was taken from Ben's trigger repair article here at SSC.

Good luck with the repair and I hope all goes well. Post again if you have any more information or pictures to add.

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That said, there's always the possibility that this wasn't the problem after all. And there's probably a secondary problem anyway that causes the hissing. I'll address that once this is cleared up, as this is the priority and you'll be happy you repaired the trigger.

Thanks for the advise guys. I had left the blaster alone for a few hours and then tried it again, and it works now. I have gone through a few refills and havent have any problems.

I read an article long ago about the difference between the two marks. Perhaps it was at iSc, but I don't know--I'm still trying various Google searches to find it again. Help on this?

Anyway, I believe the Mk.2 had the ridges on the reservoir--or was that the Mk.1? My Mk.2 has ridges on the sides, but I believe the article designated triangular ones along the back seam. I'm not sure.

So basically, if yours is the Mk.2, you will want to open it up NOW--even if it means sawing off the pump cap. Otherwise you'll be kicking yourself for eternity.

And by the way, Ben's trigger repair article did point out that preventative reinforcement is better than having to fix it after the fact. Plus, you could do a similar reinforcement on the plastic rod that goes through the pump rod and to the pump handle--on mine, it broke off while opening once as the turning of the screw just spun it apart.

SilentGuy wrote:I read an article long ago about the difference between the two marks. Perhaps it was at iSc, but I don't know--I'm still trying various Google searches to find it again. Help on this?

Anyway, I believe the Mk.2 had the ridges on the reservoir--or was that the Mk.1? My Mk.2 has ridges on the sides, but I believe the article designated triangular ones along the back seam. I'm not sure.

So basically, if yours is the Mk.2, you will want to open it up NOW--even if it means sawing off the pump cap. Otherwise you'll be kicking yourself for eternity.

And by the way, Ben's trigger repair article did point out that preventative reinforcement is better than having to fix it after the fact. Plus, you could do a similar reinforcement on the plastic rod that goes through the pump rod and to the pump handle--on mine, it broke off while opening once as the turning of the screw just spun it apart.

Calm down Silent guy =P , Sounds like it was just a fluke.

Hope it dosen't have anymore problems!

-SL

Yes, it could have been a fluke, but with the Mark 2, the trigger will eventually break. There's no question about it. I'm just saying that if the trigger breaks off at some point, then you know you have a Mark 2. And once again, reinforcement > repair.

Thanks for the heads-up, though. I guess if it ain't broke, don't fix it. As long as it works, I suppose...