Hawk's APH

Homemade water gun threads that are notable.
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Hawk
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Hawk's APH

Post by Hawk » Tue Sep 23, 2008 6:51 pm

After building 2 APHs, one single and one double PR, I noticed a discrepancy in the instructions. In the diagram it describes the 3" PVC pieces as being 4" long, while in the text down the page it calls for 5" long. I followed the text instructions before I noticed the diagram difference, so both my APHs have 5" long PRs. Is there an advantage of one size over the other? Which is what is recommended?

I've also noticed in the customization section that most of the topics are still empty. Is no one working on APH improvements or variants, or has it taken a back seat to bigger projects?

I need to get some pics of my APHs, but I followed the instructions very closely and so they are pretty stock. I did not cement the cap on the pump in place, so that the pump can be disassembled and repaired or replaced. I thought about adding a threaded cap to the pump, but the slip fit cap seems to work just fine as long as you don't get too aggressive with pulling outward, and makes it easy to disassemble on the spot. Which has proved helpful as I have had trouble with O-ring size. I'm tuning the the pump with a variety of O-rings, but have not found the combo that produces the performance that is stated on the webpage. I've been able to get 30ft out of the double PR APH.

Another departure I did was use a 4" long 1"-dowel instead of the styrofoam block, secured with two hose clamps attached with wood screws to the rod. This provides a 2nd handle, and allows the APH to be held in a long rifle mode with the rear handle, or be held in a bull-pup mode with the rear handle against the shoulder and holding the forward handle which is good for CQB (close quarters battle). I played with some alternative layouts to the standard plumbing layout to try and create an APH with a rear stock for the shoulder, but I kept coming back to the standard layout as the cheapest and most flexible design.

I've also added a sling to both APHs with D-rings attached by zip-ties. I've used the 5gal solar camp shower for the water source. I've run some estimates to see if an onboard PVC container for smaller amounts (especially on the single PR to be used as a lightweight carbine) and smaller side slung bladders, but the cheapest solution is always the 5gal bladder and hose. So I'm toying with using this as a standard setup allowing flexibility between full load with backpack (or external backpack frame), half load with butt pack on LCE, and maybe a method of rolling and attaching the bladder to the APH with a quarter load. I'm considering using Plasticote flat black paint to change the color.

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cantab
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Re: My latest creation

Post by cantab » Tue Sep 23, 2008 7:01 pm

Larger PCs will give better shot time. Too large, however, and it takes too long to pump from empty. Smaller PCs mean a smaller gun. To be honest, 4 vs 5 inches isn't going to make a huge difference.

Regarding performance, are you sure what's limiting it is the pump? If that were the case, then water should leak from the pump cap. If that's not happening, it's likely your performance issue is elsewhere.
I work on Windows. My toolbox is Linux.
Arsenal:
Super Soaker: XP215, 2xXP220, Liquidator, Aquashock Secret Strike M(odded), Arctic Blast M, CPS1200, CPS2100, SC Power Pak, 3l aquapack, 1.5l aquapack
Water Warriors: Jet, Sting Ray M, Shark, Argon M, Tiger Shark, PulseMaster
Others: Waterbolt, The Blaster, Storm 500, Shield Blaster 2000, generic PR gun, generic backpack piston pumper (broken), 3l garden sprayer M, 10l water carrier:

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SSCBen
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Re: My latest creation

Post by SSCBen » Tue Sep 23, 2008 7:15 pm

Welcome to SSC Hawk!

Is what you mean by PR what we normally call a PC? PR water guns (pressurized reservoir) water guns have a single water chamber that is pressurized. A "reservoir" refers to the water chamber water is put in first. A PC (pressure chamber) usually refers to a secondary chamber but can refer to the reservoir in a PR water gun.

The discrepancy is due to the use of recycle images. I'll fix it eventually, but the length really is opinion so it doesn't matter much. 4 to 5 inches is a good length. Some people would prefer more and others would prefer less.

The customizations section obviously isn't as important as the remainder and did go on the back burner. Making updates at the moment would be difficult due to college so I don't anticipate that I'd change the page. Maybe someone else would but I've been busy. There are a good deal of customizations out there but few take the time to try them.

The wooden pump I suggest in the article is pretty fool proof in my experience. You get O-rings that are close to the right size and the wood expanding will make them seal well. I sent off a water gun to C-A_99 here with a wooden pump I thought could have been done better and he said it was better than anything he's done. The main disadvantage is that water + wood + time = mold but that can be averted by storing the water gun with the pump removed.

I don't recommend a styrofoam block like I used back in 2004. I know I've said this before (a long time ago though) but it's worth reiterating: styrofoam was used because it was available for free.

I'm considering changing the guide to use small pieces of PVC pipe and cable ties in a similar piece in the future but I haven't had time to do so. A wooden dowel works too.

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Hawk
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Re: My latest creation

Post by Hawk » Tue Sep 23, 2008 7:28 pm

cantab wrote:Larger PCs will give better shot time. Too large, however, and it takes too long to pump from empty. Smaller PCs mean a smaller gun. To be honest, 4 vs 5 inches isn't going to make a huge difference.

Regarding performance, are you sure what's limiting it is the pump? If that were the case, then water should leak from the pump cap. If that's not happening, it's likely your performance issue is elsewhere.
That was fast for the first response.

By larger do you mean taller or larger diameter? 3" appears to be the intersection between cost of materials and surface area for pressurized air to push against. 3" PR having an air/water contact of 7.065sq in (assuming 3" PVC has 3" ID, which it likely doesn't). So an APH-1 (single PR) is 7.065sq in, while an APH-2 is 14.130sq in resulting in longer shot time because of surface area. This should also mean that a theoretical APH-3 (21.195sq in) or mounted APH-4 (28.260sq in) would have longer shot times. Does the taller PR have any effect on shot time as well?

My O-rings so far have fallen into 3 categories, small ones that leak out the pump, large ones that pull off the pump, and medium ones that roll slightly out of the groove. The last one doesn't leak, but I'm not sure it is giving me all the performance I should get from each pump. I'm searching for a size that stays seated and doesn't leak. My presumption is that I'm not getting the efficiency with the dragging O-ring and therefore not as many pumps as I need before I get the resistance that keeps me from pumping more.

What other factors affect performance? If the nozzle hole in the cap is not centered or drilled straight, will it affect range? I'm not sure what else would affect performance, as the rest of the APH is pretty simple.

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Hawk
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Re: My latest creation

Post by Hawk » Tue Sep 23, 2008 7:34 pm

Ben wrote:Welcome to SSC Hawk!

Is what you mean by PR what we normally call a PC? PR water guns (pressurized reservoir) water guns have a single water chamber that is pressurized. A "reservoir" refers to the water chamber water is put in first. A PC (pressure chamber) usually refers to a secondary chamber but can refer to the reservoir in a PR water gun.

The discrepancy is due to the use of recycle images. I'll fix it eventually, but the length really is opinion so it doesn't matter much. 4 to 5 inches is a good length. Some people would prefer more and others would prefer less.
.
My bad, I meant PC. So I guess I should refer to the solar shower bladder as the reservoir instead.

I guess I will stick with the 5" measurement as the standard design.

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cantab
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Re: My latest creation

Post by cantab » Tue Sep 23, 2008 7:53 pm

Hawk wrote:That was fast for the first response.

By larger do you mean taller or larger diameter?
It doesn't matter.
Does the taller PR have any effect on shot time as well?
Shot time is determined by the PC volume and the nozzle size. The shape of the PCs is irrelevant. Provided the PC connection isn't a narrow point, the number of PCs is also irrelevant.
My O-rings so far have fallen into 3 categories, small ones that leak out the pump, large ones that pull off the pump, and medium ones that roll slightly out of the groove.
Have you got the right size dowel? And have you cut the groove deep enough? I think the groove needs to be a bit more than half the o-ring's thickness. I think the O-ring should be slightly stretched even when in the groove.
What other factors affect performance? If the nozzle hole in the cap is not centered or drilled straight, will it affect range?
Yeah, you want a straight, smooth and centered hole. If you have access to a drill press that's best. Otherwise, CENTRE PUNCH the hole! Making a pilot with a small nail should be fine.
And the nozzle needs to be the optimum diameter. Too large or too small reduces range, though there does tend to be some 'wiggle room'.
I work on Windows. My toolbox is Linux.
Arsenal:
Super Soaker: XP215, 2xXP220, Liquidator, Aquashock Secret Strike M(odded), Arctic Blast M, CPS1200, CPS2100, SC Power Pak, 3l aquapack, 1.5l aquapack
Water Warriors: Jet, Sting Ray M, Shark, Argon M, Tiger Shark, PulseMaster
Others: Waterbolt, The Blaster, Storm 500, Shield Blaster 2000, generic PR gun, generic backpack piston pumper (broken), 3l garden sprayer M, 10l water carrier:

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Hawk
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Re: My latest creation

Post by Hawk » Tue Sep 23, 2008 9:02 pm

cantab wrote:It doesn't matter.Shot time is determined by the PC volume and the nozzle size. The shape of the PCs is irrelevant. Provided the PC connection isn't a narrow point, the number of PCs is also irrelevant.


Have you got the right size dowel? And have you cut the groove deep enough? I think the groove needs to be a bit more than half the o-ring's thickness. I think the O-ring should be slightly stretched even when in the groove.

Yeah, you want a straight, smooth and centered hole. If you have access to a drill press that's best. Otherwise, CENTRE PUNCH the hole! Making a pilot with a small nail should be fine.
And the nozzle needs to be the optimum diameter. Too large or too small reduces range, though there does tend to be some 'wiggle room'.
OK, I will try making some new nozzles and make sure they are centered and straight (no drill press tho, so I will try to be extra careful this time). I need a narrower file to make the O-ring notch deeper. I have a pile of O-rings here, so I can just experiment until I find the right match.

I was focusing on water/air contact area, which is a horizontal cross-section of the PC. But if volume is the true measure (PiVi=PfVf) then I should do my price comparisons against the collective chamber volume. APH-1 is roughly 35.352cu in (ignoring the volume of the curved cap and reducer connections, I should probably assemble one for my next build and measure its actual volume) while an APH-2 is roughly 70.704cu in, while if you splurged and used a single 4" PC that is 6" long it would be 75.35 cu in or close to the same shot time as an APH-2 (all things equal, with same nozzle on each build).

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Hawk
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Re: My latest creation

Post by Hawk » Thu Sep 25, 2008 4:33 pm

Ben wrote:I battle tested it yesterday too, the battle was very fast-paced because it only had 3 people, this gun is nice, my 1000 would have done better in this particular battle, here's my observations:

You'll be pumping this gun forever. Well not forever, but it still takes a while, in battle it depends on the amount of air in tthe backpack, sometimes air gets pumped in with my backpack and it will make you pump a few more times to get the same power. Try to conserve your water, most of the time you'll be using a large nozzle because of it's killer range. This is seriously a sniper/HWO type weapon with the larger nozzles, if it had a single PC it likely could be a good grunt weapon too. I'm going to make my next one have one chamber, and then a crazy one with 4 maybe.

The riot blast feature was very useful for slaughters, I didn't tell anyone here it had it but it did. I rioted them while they were pumping, then I ran away because I had to pump up this beast. :Hey, that's funny.: I also noticed that the riot blast shoots pretty far, it was nearing my bro's 1200 in range. The nozzle selection system could have been better, I know now to put all my nozzle settings (they screw on, there is no selector) in my pockets, not the backpack I was using! I couldn't get at them there.

The trigger set up didn't bother me at all, it was just as efficient as a normal trigger, that surprised me. My only problem is that I can't pump and close/open the valve at the same time, but I can pump while it's shooting so it's not too bad.

Overall, very powerful and useful gun, could be redesigned to work better in certain situations, so it's design is highly versable as well. I love it, I don't care if it's air (that rhymes), it's stream actually is fairly constant due to the large PCs and high pressure. The drop off is weird, the range does drop off, but in the last half second it drops a ton, like 35 feet! Must be the high pressure!
I was wondering about the role of the APH-2 in battle. I had originally assumed that the APH-2 was akin to a basic rifle (what I use XP150s for now). But from your description, it sounds like it's more of a heavy gun and the APH-1 is more of an assault rifle.

Having a military background (although I fought water wars well before that), I organize my troops into one or more "fire teams". A rifle team is composed of a rifleman (XP150, using short aimed bursts at targets), grenadier (CPS2500, fires with 5x in rifle role and 20x in grenadier mode using max output for close artillery), an automatic rifleman (SS-300, for close fire support using long shot time for suppressive fire), and team leader (XP150, acting as rifleman but leading team through action "shoot when/where I shoot" "move/stop when I move/stop").

To replace my armory (slowly loosing soakers to age) I was thinking of building a fire team based on the APH, with smaller nozzles for rifleman and AR, and riot blast or larger nozzle for grenadier. Originally I was thinking of using the APH-2 as the main rifle platform and the APH-1 as a carbine (personal defense soaker) for squad leaders (and with enough troops, platoon leaders and platoon sergeants). But it sounds like the APH-1 may be better suited to that role (which would reduce my projected costs for a arming a fire team). And the APH-2 sounds better for a medium fire support gunner. My experience with my APH-2 has suggested that it is a little overpowered for such a basic role (what you called a "grunt" soaker). And for a carbine, either using a newer underpowered soaker or building something new (maybe 2" chamber with all 1/2" PVC to shorten and lighten it for inclusion of onboard tank). What do you think?

BTW, I've also done some combat load calculations (30% of soldier weight, or 48lbs for 160lb soldier) and figured out with clothing and LCE an individual with a 2lb APH-2 and reservoir bladder can carry 2.5 gallons of water. So the camp shower can be half filled for a standard load. I was thinking of reducing team leader and rifleman water load so that they can carry less, since their short aimed shots use less water. But then I realized with the flexibility of everyone with the same soaker platform, as grenadier and AR use up their reservoir, the team leader and rifleman just switch roles with them. This would maximize field time before having to return to base or resupply.

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Hawk
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Re: My latest creation

Post by Hawk » Sat Oct 04, 2008 10:46 pm

Here are pics of the single PC APH and double PC APH that I built. The APH-1 has a strap made from 5' of 1" nylon webbing, plastic webbing retainers, zip ties, and metal D-rings. There are 3 placements for the strap to attach, 2 along the top and one at the rear to allow flexibility in setting up the strap. The APH-2 does not have a strap yet. Both have a 4" long 1 1/4" dowel rod to secure the pump to the PCs with zip-ties. The zip ties aren't as secure as the hose clamps I used the first time. I painted the soakers with Plasti-coat flat black. The dowel, rear handle, and pump handle will receive a layer of grip tape as well to match them to the rest of the soaker and provide an easy hold even while wet. The camp-shower bladders and tubing are not picture with the soakers.

The nozzle selection includes a variety for performance testing. I've made a 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" nozzles. In previous tests the 1/8" has proven to be a little lackluster. Using Ben's measure of the riot blast (3/4") for the APH-2 as 50x; I've roughly calculated that the nozzles fall into 1x (1/8"), 5x (1/4"), 10x (3/8"), and 20x (1/2"). Anyone have any test bench data to support or contradict that? Without any data on the APH-1, I don't know if those nozzles will produce the same output. I hope to do some bench-tests of my own in the near future, but I still need to find a graduated cylinder to measure volume.

I forgot to mention, the ball valve and pressure valves are from Lowes. I've found some at Menard's that are a little slimmer and cheaper, and will be using those in the next build.
Attachments
APH-2.JPG.JPG
APH-1.JPG.JPG
Last edited by Hawk on Sun Oct 05, 2008 2:39 am, edited 1 time in total.

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cantab
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Re: My latest creation

Post by cantab » Sun Oct 05, 2008 8:24 pm

I like the black.

You should add a grip to the pump rod.
I work on Windows. My toolbox is Linux.
Arsenal:
Super Soaker: XP215, 2xXP220, Liquidator, Aquashock Secret Strike M(odded), Arctic Blast M, CPS1200, CPS2100, SC Power Pak, 3l aquapack, 1.5l aquapack
Water Warriors: Jet, Sting Ray M, Shark, Argon M, Tiger Shark, PulseMaster
Others: Waterbolt, The Blaster, Storm 500, Shield Blaster 2000, generic PR gun, generic backpack piston pumper (broken), 3l garden sprayer M, 10l water carrier:

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Hawk
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Re: My latest creation

Post by Hawk » Sun Oct 05, 2008 10:13 pm

cantab wrote:I like the black.

You should add a grip to the pump rod.
I plan to wrap it in grip tape, but I've found the 1/2" dowel to be thick enough to comfortably hold while pumping. I could also take the 1 1/4" dowel I have for making the support with and drill a 1/2" hole and slip fit it over the pump dowel, then glue and screw it into place.
Last edited by Hawk on Fri Oct 10, 2008 9:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Hawk
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Re: My latest creation

Post by Hawk » Fri Oct 10, 2008 8:59 pm

I'm posting a pic of the test assembling of what I am calling an APH-C (for compact or carbine). I'm using to test the usefulness of a 2" pressure chamber and 1/2" barrel. The use of 1/2" has reduced the length of a single chamber APH by 4" to 5" by removing the male/female connectors between the pump and barrel. It will restrict cap sizes to 1x, 2x and 5x nozzles, with a 20x output for riot blast (assuming things are equal to the APH-2 figures).

I've also included an onboard reservoir. I've stuck with 3" pipe for the chamber even tho recommendations on this board have been to stay with the same diameter as the PCs, because a 2" reservoir would not hold a useful amount of water. I have not cut the 3" pipe yet, so it is missing from the picture, but you can see where I expect the cap for the res to be, and the rear elbow placement. The rear elbow was the most interesting part, I found this piece at Menard's. It has a 3" fitting one way, an 1 1/2" fitting to the side and a screw on cap opposite the 3" opening. With a 1 1/2" to 1/2" connector, it creates a reservoir with the exit in the bottom of the chamber. It also uses fewer parts, reducing cost. I'm drilling a hole in the upper forward end of the res to let air in during pumping, and using the cap as the means of filling the tank. If I were putting this setup on an APH-1 or APH-2, I would still use a 3" pipe as recommended (I haven't seen a 4" version of the elbow I found), but it would end up being a long res. Rough measurements look like it will be a 9" piece of 3" pipe that I will use, but I won't cut until I've cemented the rest of the soaker together make sure that is the maximum length before hitting the PC.

As far as the lengths on the 1/2" pipes, everything is the standard 2" sizes with a 5" handle. But I've shortened the pump to keep the handle from sticking out farther than the barrel when compressed. The new pump is an 8" section of 1/2" pvc and a 12" long 1/2" dowel rod (scaled down from 12" pvc and 15" dowel). I have added a 6" piece of 1/2" pvc to the end of the soaker with a 1/2" elbow to replace the female fitting and male hose nozzle. I toyed with the idea of making this rear piece the 5" handle and using a 2" piece to replace the handle brining the barrel and pump down on top of each other. But I decided against to to add more flexibility to the use in how to hold it (rear handle, middle handle). I have not decided on whether I will put the dowel rod between barrel and pump, as the shorter length may prove less flexible under the weight of the water.

I haven't calculated the cost of the build yet, I expect it may prove to be pretty cheap. The soaker is meant to be more of a personal defense for squad/platoon leaders who are not primarily firing their soaker in combat, only when SHTF (shit hits the fan). But the capacities and nozzle sizes on this build appear to be similar to the XP150. Performance tests will be interesting.
Attachments
APH-C - 1.JPG

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Hawk
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Re: My latest creation

Post by Hawk » Sat Oct 11, 2008 8:45 pm

Most of the APH-C is cemented together. The reservoir measures out for a 9" length of 3" PVC pipe. The reservoir is roughly 2 quarts in volume, and the pressure chamber is around a pint in volume (single 3" PC for an APH-1 is a little over a quart for comparison).
Last edited by Hawk on Tue Oct 21, 2008 5:48 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Hawk
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Re: My latest creation

Post by Hawk » Sat Oct 11, 2008 10:59 pm

I forgot to mention cost. Without a strap, the total cost plus tax came to $31.64 for materials used. The most expensive part was the 3"x1 1/2" elbow with cap at $6.99, followed by the check valves at $4.99 each, the 3" cap at $2.58, and the ball valve at $1.88.

The total cost for the addition of an onboard reservoir was $11.98 with tax (less the savings of of the 1/2" female adapter and hose barb). Obviously not as cost effective as the camp shower reservoir with tubing, but has the advantage of simplicity (you can actually set it down when needed, without dragging it around).

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Hawk
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Re: My latest creation

Post by Hawk » Tue Oct 21, 2008 1:16 am

Another update on my APH-C project. I've included some pictures of it next to an APH-1 and APH-2 for size comparison. I also took a pick of it next to an XP-150, which shows how compact this model is. It was just painted and I forgot to put the pump in, and I still need to add a strap and grip tape to it.

I started to do some research on the different classes of soakers to try and type were the different APHs fall. Ignoring nozzle size as a factor, since homemades have swappable nozzles, I concentrated on chamber and reservoir size. I found that the APC (air pressure chamber) soakers broke down into 4 classes of weapons (I'm using English system measurements because they are pretty close to the volumes, but 1 quart is roughly equal to one liter anyway):

SS100 class - with 3/4 pint PC and 1.5 quart reservoir
SS200 class - with 1 pint PC and 2 quart reservoir
SS60 class - with 1/2 pint PC and 1 quart reservoir
SS300 class - with 1.5 quarts PC and 1.75 gallons backpack reservoir

I've ignored the Overlord as it's own category, since it is basically an SS60 class soaker with a medium backpack reservoir in addition to its onboard tank. So the XP150/XP110/XP310 are all SS100 class, the XP250 is an SS200 class, while the XP95/XP105/XP70/XP270 are all SS60 class. Notice how all the soakers in the APR classes fall into 1:4 ratio for PC:Res size.

For my new APH-C, I accidently arrived at this ratio of 1:4. My rough estimates for volume are 1 pint PC and 2 quart reservoir, putting it in the SS200 class. This caused me to change my mind about it's role in battle. I've used SS200s and SS300s in the past as squad automatic weapons, with SS100s (originally SS50s, but not for long) and XP150s for assault rifles. So I'm leaning more toward the APH-C as an assault rifle at least. Looking at the cost of trimming down the 3" PVC for the reservoir and 2" PVC for the PC, would only shave less than a dollar off the cost of the soaker, so it seems hardly worth it to create a subcompact version of it.

Speaking of price, I ran a new cost estimate for materials. I've purchased my PVC from Menards, strap materials from JoAnn Fabric, and O-rings/washers from Lowes. In the future I will probably get my ball valves from Lowes as they have bigger handles than Menards, and cost about a buck more. APH-2 and APH-1 do not include the carrying pack or the reservoir in their cost.

APH-2: $48.12
APH-1: $40.33
APH-C: $36.82

Interestingly, the APH-2 seems to be a SS300 class soaker, but the APH-1 is a unique class to APCs. It has more in common with CPS class soakers (ignoring the backpack/PR models):

CPS2000 class - 1 quart PC and 3 quarts reservoir
CPS1000 class - 1 pint PC and 2 quarts reservoir
CPS3000 class - 1 quart PC and 2 gallon backpack reservoir
SC500 class - 3/4 pint PC and 1 quart reservoir
SC600 class - 1 pint PC and 1.5 quart reservoir

CPS class soakers generally follow a 1:3 ratio for PC:Res, with 3 quarts being the limit of an onboard reservoir. The CPS1000 class can be looked at as an extension of the SS200 class, as the PC type is the only real difference beside nozzle size. The APH-1 with backpack reservoir appears to be a CPS3000 class soaker.

In looking at these classes, I see that a CPS2000 class APH soaker is possible using a 1 quart PC and a 3 quart onboard reservoir (extending the reservoir design I have by 6"). I think that will be my next build after I run some tests on my current soakers. I'm not sure whether to have a 1/2" barrel on this design or use the 3/4" barrel from the source design. A 50x nozzle seems overkill for an onboard reservoir soaker.

Speaking of nozzles, I've created a 2x (5/32"), 5x (1/4"), and 10x (3/8") nozzles for the APH-C. For the APH-1 and APH-2 I've made 5x (1/4"), 10x (3/8"), and 20x (1/2") nozzles. The 1x (1/8") nozzle I made for the 3/4" barrels was rather weak so I drilled it out to a larger nozzle. So the APH-2 with a 5x nozzle is basically an SS300 stand-in. The APH-1 with 20x/10x/5x nozzles is a stand-in for the CPS3000/3200. And the APH-C with 2x is a stand-in for the SS200/XP250 (which also had 1x and 3x respectively), and a CPS1000/1200/2100 stand-in with a 5x nozzle.

For those completists, I also classified the APR models too:

SS50 class - 1 quart APR
SS30 class - 1/2 pint APR
SS20 class - pistol APR
SS40 class - 1 pint APR
Last edited by Hawk on Sat Nov 15, 2008 1:09 am, edited 1 time in total.

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