Approximately a month and a half ago my CPS 17k (60 balloon K-mod and a CVF) blew it's trigger valve. I heard a little pop, and immediately water came leaking out of the gun. I opened it up, surveyed the gun, and little to my surprise I found a crack. If you were to pluck a hair from your head and lay it across a white piece of paper, that would be how big it was, fairly small.
So, immediately I hauled out my 5 minute epoxy, squirt some out, mixed it up, and plopped it on the crack.
24 hours later I was left in the same position as when I had none. I pumped my gun and after 6 pumps, it blew through.
Knowing it was 5 minute epoxy (not very strong) I wasn't very worried. So I went to the hardware store the next week, bought some PL Premium, and smothered my whole trigger valve, including the crack, in PL Premium.
48+ hours later I tested my gun.
First pump... all appears well
5 pumps... still fine
9 pumps... it blows through, once again water leaking everywhere.
About 2 weeks later I received Epoxy, 1500 PSI, (Sent to me by drewsky (Thanks) ).
I pulled off most of the PL Premium, since it already proved useless. Sanded the area where the crack is located, and put on a nice layer of epoxy. It wasn't a large amount, but definetely enough to cover the crack (approx 1mm).
..20 hours later...
Well, after 5 pumps this was HARD AS Hasbro HQ to pump. Ok I'm serious, it was completely different. I reached 8 or 9 pumps and once again it started leaking. I opened it up, pumped it to see what would happen. 2 little holes had broken through and were spraying the water everywhere.
Here I am, 5 hours later, frustrated, discouraged, and confused.
If anyone has comments, suggestions or some great idea on how to fix this or to tell me what I'm doing wrong, please tell me.
Thanks,
-Storm
P.S.
Please, don't say 'Change the trigger valve.' I'm not even going to bother trying that.
My CPS 17000's trigger valve. Repair Needed
- BlueSmudge
- Posts: 886
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 10:57 pm
As I said, you should epoxy, or PL a thick peice of hard plastic over the crack. This will give much more support than glue alone. Because the glue will be doing what it is more usually ment to do. I also advise this order of opertaion for sealing the leak.
1.) Sand sand around crack, and gluing side of plastic piece.
2.) Rub sanded areas with nail polish remover.
3.) Wash sanded areas with water.
4.) Epoxy crack as usual. Use a small amount so that the glue is flush the rest of the trigger valve.
5.) Cover the sanded side of the the plastic peice with epoxy, and put it over the crack, so that it is sealed.
6.) If you wish to go crazy, cover the plastic piece with a layer of epoxy. Make sure to leave no week spots.
1.) Sand sand around crack, and gluing side of plastic piece.
2.) Rub sanded areas with nail polish remover.
3.) Wash sanded areas with water.
4.) Epoxy crack as usual. Use a small amount so that the glue is flush the rest of the trigger valve.
5.) Cover the sanded side of the the plastic peice with epoxy, and put it over the crack, so that it is sealed.
6.) If you wish to go crazy, cover the plastic piece with a layer of epoxy. Make sure to leave no week spots.
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BlueSoak.net
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BlueSoak.net
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- BlueSmudge
- Posts: 886
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 10:57 pm
it means that it is even with the surface of the trigger valve. If it isnt, the plastic piece wil be glued down uneven, and might result in weak spots.
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BlueSoak.net
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BlueSoak.net
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- Soaker Leader
- Posts: 228
- Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 1:43 pm
Here look at this. It was in the repair section. I don't know if your trigger valve looks like this though.
- RacerSoaker445
- Posts: 951
- Joined: Sun Mar 14, 2004 2:27 pm