Max-D 5000 problems

Repairs to water guns. Please put repair topics in this forum so that people do not have to sort through so many topics when looking for a repair. If a fix is included in the topic, please add (Fixed) before the topic title to indicate so.
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Monsoon
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Post by Monsoon » Mon Nov 08, 2004 2:17 am

I'm taking apart my MD5000 for a MD5000 QFD mod. One screw has worn away it's indent, making it virtually impossible to unscrew. What should I do?
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NiborDude
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Post by NiborDude » Mon Nov 08, 2004 2:52 am

Get a drill bit and drill it out that way. I did that to a couple soakers. Get a new screw cause the screw is dead afterwards.
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USSA
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Post by USSA » Mon Nov 08, 2004 3:52 am

I don't recommend that mod. It literally takes forever to fill the pc. I wound up drilling the nozzle in an effort to make it fill faster but then have the epoxy and redrill smaller because range was destroyed. It is so much faster to fill and pump manually. Anyway drill it if you're really set on the mod though.

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Monsoon
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Post by Monsoon » Mon Nov 08, 2004 12:08 pm

Yeah, I was wondering which mod I should do, and I think I'm going to do a check valve freeze, since it's pretty easy on a MD5000 (pressurized reservoir). I'll try drilling a larger nozzle as well.


EDIT-Scratch all that. This one screw is pissing me off, I'm going to annihilate it with a power drill. It isn't an important screw, so killing it won't do damage to the soaker.
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USSA
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Post by USSA » Tue Nov 09, 2004 4:20 am

Unless you want to seal the fate of that soaker to be a simple riot blast gun with absolutly no range please don't drill the nozzle. A check valve freeze could work but then you may have to reinforce the internals and its probably more work than its worth. Just my 2 cents

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Monsoon
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Post by Monsoon » Tue Nov 09, 2004 12:12 pm

Well I'm modding it one way or another, so it's either the QFD or the check valve freeze.
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USSA
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Post by USSA » Tue Nov 09, 2004 9:19 pm

A check valve freeze is fine... if you have a lot of time (to fill) the qfd mod is fine also, but you are signing away the fate of your blaster if you drill the nozzle.

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Monsoon
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Post by Monsoon » Sat Nov 13, 2004 12:03 am

**** my Max-D 5000. I give up. It's frikin' impossible to open that one ****n screw! grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr! :angry:
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Crashdummy
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Post by Crashdummy » Sat Nov 13, 2004 12:08 am

Hey, that's funny., some are like that. Heck, on my xp 310 the screwdrivers I have don't fit it those holes leading to the screws deep within the soaker's shell.

USSA
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Post by USSA » Sat Nov 13, 2004 3:00 am

Just measure the diameter of one of the screws you already got out (thre screw part, not the head) find a bit just a tab bit bigger, and drill away. Just takes a second and bang your blasters open.

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Monsoon
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Post by Monsoon » Sat Dec 11, 2004 6:36 pm

Sorry to revive a dead thread, but I just scored a second Max-D 5000, (silver and red colouring--the best stock soaker colours ever&#33 ;) so now I don't really care about what happens to my "mod" one (blue and bright orange). Today I'm going to try to open it again with drastic measures.

EDIT: YEAH! I finally got it open! I'll have to seal the area with the broken screw with something later on. I'll take a pic of it.
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Monsoon
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Post by Monsoon » Sat Dec 11, 2004 7:26 pm

I'm going to check valve freeze it. I have all the things needed: Epoxy, and an OPEN Max-D 5000. The internals picture is attached.

EDIT-it won't let me attach the file?
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SSCBen
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Post by SSCBen » Sat Dec 11, 2004 7:54 pm

I am doing an attachment test. It appears to be working for me. I believe you didn't hit the "Add This Attachment" button. That button must have been added in IPB 2.0. I'd still suggest using an image host as opposed to the attachment system.
Attachments
glycerin.jpg
glycerin.jpg (18.41 KiB) Viewed 2192 times

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Monsoon
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Post by Monsoon » Sat Dec 11, 2004 7:59 pm

Yeah, I'll give that a shot. Anyway, back to the MD5000, I opened it using my serrated edged pocket knife to hack away at the plastic that cases the stuck screw to expose the metal of the screw. Then I twisted it off using my bare hands.

EDIT-While it's open, I'm also going to use the Epoxy to reinforce the internals since I'm freezing the check valve. By the way, what does sanding the plastic do? Does rigid edges make Epoxy stick better?
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Soaker Leader
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Post by Soaker Leader » Sun Dec 12, 2004 12:32 pm

Epoxy sticks better on smooth dry surfaces. So if the internals were a little rough the epoxy won't stick to well. Oh and be sure to have as CLOSE OR EXACT to the same emount of Resign and Hardener. Else it will probaly be weaker than it is supposed to be.

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