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Old 07-07-2006, 03:37 PM   #1
Lucius Octavion
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Default The dangers of over pumping/over filling

I am planning on doing the mad zook mod, but I am concerned about over filling it or something and breaking one of the internals. How exactly do you fill the thing after the mod is done? How do you know when to stop and things like that?

Same thing with a k mod with a check valve freeze, how do you know when to stop pumping?
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Old 07-07-2006, 03:45 PM   #2
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I not sure about the zook mod (I don't even Know what that is) but on a k-mod or cvf you pump till it gets hard when it get hard you should know that is were you should stop
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Old 07-07-2006, 03:53 PM   #3
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The Mad Zook mod is ingenious--it involves relocating the quick filler port to where the pressure release valve was, and then it uses the wide tube (originally for the quick filler socket) as a secondary firing barrel. Basically, you'll be filling from the top as opposed to from the front, but people will only notice the powerful wave of water coming at them. Common sense should tell you when to stop--and I'm not sure, but the force of the hose's water just might make the flow peter out even before anything breaks.

Common sense also dictates when to stop pumping with a K-mod. Make sure you don't keep pumping when the bladder hits the walls; and I believe, at one point, Duxburian made a list of the maximum number of pumps for various K-modded soakers. Remember, the extra balloons use up some of the original bladder casing space, so it also depends on how strong the K-mod is.
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Old 07-07-2006, 03:56 PM   #4
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Thanks Silentguy was that mod just added to the page cause I have never seen it there be for?
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Old 07-07-2006, 04:00 PM   #5
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Nope, the mod has been there for a very long time--longer than I've been here, even before I first saw SSC without joining the forums. If you'll look at the date at the top of that page, you'll notice that it was done in early 2004. They say they were still working on it, but for all intents and purposes, the mod is completed and fairly well-documented.
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Old 07-07-2006, 04:02 PM   #6
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This is kind of off the topic but who do you mean by they
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Old 07-07-2006, 04:35 PM   #7
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I meant the people who were writing the article--Pepper and Dirtjump9. And no, that question wasn't off topic at all--you were just clearing up some confusion caused by my laziness to explain.
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Old 07-07-2006, 09:54 PM   #8
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Ahh, so you are filling it up from the top? And then the water shoots out of the nozzle as usual? BTW, how wide is the nozzle in diameter supposed to be? In the documentation it says 1/4" or smaller but that seems tiny. I have 3/8 inch pipe right now. By the way I am also trying to repair my QFD for it, the part that attatches to the hose broke.
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Old 07-08-2006, 01:49 PM   #9
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There is a small risk of a problem if the PRV is removed. I experienced something like this with my modded 3200 (which never had a PRV designed for hose filling)

It needs a bit of work still, but the problem wasn't terminal.
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Old 07-08-2006, 02:12 PM   #10
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@ joannaardway: Exactly what problem are you referring to? The only one I know of is the epoxy plug being blown out...
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Old 07-08-2006, 03:38 PM   #11
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The movable endcap on the LRT blew off. It's fixable/replaceable though.
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Old 07-08-2006, 08:42 PM   #12
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What do prv and lrt mean, may I ask? Is it ok to do a mad zook with 3/8" pipe?
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Old 07-08-2006, 09:10 PM   #13
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LRT--a common word everybody should know, it stands for "Latex Rubber Tubing" (initially, and incorrectly, called "surgical tubing"). It's made from rubber and bought from Mc-Master Carr or other specialty sites, and expands and contracts with a constant amount of force. It's exactly like cylindrical CPS bladders, but in a more DIY style.

PRV--something joannaardway just made up but can easily be traced to "Pressure Release Valve." CVFing refers to you eliminating the check valve, but the term is incorrect; a check valve is a one-way valve, so the real name for what you're looking for is the pressure release valve (it opens at a certain pressure). If you're referring to the process of removing this valve, then say CVF; but if you're describing the part, as joannaardway was, use PRV.

And if you look at the article, it suggests 1/4" or smaller PVC. I don't know exactly where it's used (I don't have a Splashzooka, so I neither know the internals layout nor have the need to know), so I'm not sure whether 3/8" is applicable or not. I could probably find it soon, but I don't feel like it now...
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Old 07-09-2006, 09:01 AM   #14
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I couldn't even find on fourth inch pipe. It seemed too small anyway.
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Old 07-09-2006, 09:27 AM   #15
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I think we should use PRVF as opposed to CVF in the future. I know in our website update, I'll be changing that. CVF is just plain incorrect and akward to explain or justify as demonstrated.

Use half-inch pipe with a threaded adaptor as opposed to the hard to find 1/4" pipe.
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